10 December 2021

Jakob Schubert climbs King Capella 9b (+) and La Capella 9b (a+) on same day

Olympic Bronze Medallist Jakob Schubert reports on Insta that he has done the third ascent of Will Bosi's King Capella (9b+) in Siurana giving it a personal 9b grade. It only took the Austrian only four days of projecting and later the same day he did Adam Ondra's La Capella, which is a completely separate line, for which he proposes 9a+. In the 8a draft Climber of the 2021, he moves up from #6 to #2 behind Janja Garnbret. (c) Alfons Dornauer

How much did you try La Capella?
I briefly tried it on a day where I decided I had to give King Capella a break due to skin issues and then I did it 2nd try on the same day I sent King Capella (yesterday). So 5th tries in total.

What is next?
Iโ€˜ll try the other routes from Will in the Capella sector on the last days and cheer on Alfons on Furia ๐Ÿ˜‰. I just have a few days left, leaving back home on the 16th. Then some training at home and maybe a short Switzerland bouldering trip, then we will see, going with the flow ๐Ÿ˜œ.

How have your climbing life been since the Olympics?
I spent almost the whole of October in Mallorca (for DWS), took a week of break and then started to prepare mostly for this trip + climbed outside at home. I just wanted to spend as much time on rock as possible after the Olympics since there wasnโ€˜t so much time for earlier.

What about 2022, focus on outdoors and the go full-on the Olympics again in 2023?
Yes, exactly, in 2022 I want to focus a bit more on rock for sure, but still do some comps to stay in business when it gets very serious again in 2023 ๐Ÿ˜‰ Not sure about all my plans but I dream of getting back to Flatanger and travelling to La Ramirole for the first time ๐Ÿ™
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