
10 December 2021
Jakob Schubert climbs King Capella 9b (+) and La Capella 9b (a+) on same day
Olympic Bronze Medallist Jakob Schubert reports on Insta that he has done the third ascent of Will Bosi's King Capella (9b+) in Siurana giving it a personal 9b grade. It only took the Austrian only four days of projecting and later the same day he did Adam Ondra's La Capella, which is a completely separate line, for which he proposes 9a+. In the 8a draft Climber of the 2021, he moves up from #6 to #2 behind Janja Garnbret. (c) Alfons Dornauer
How much did you try La Capella?
I briefly tried it on a day where I decided I had to give King Capella a break due to skin issues and then I did it 2nd try on the same day I sent King Capella (yesterday). So 5th tries in total.
What is next?
Iโll try the other routes from Will in the Capella sector on the last days and cheer on Alfons on Furia ๐. I just have a few days left, leaving back home on the 16th. Then some training at home and maybe a short Switzerland bouldering trip, then we will see, going with the flow ๐.
How have your climbing life been since the Olympics?
I spent almost the whole of October in Mallorca (for DWS), took a week of break and then started to prepare mostly for this trip + climbed outside at home. I just wanted to spend as much time on rock as possible after the Olympics since there wasnโt so much time for earlier.
What about 2022, focus on outdoors and the go full-on the Olympics again in 2023?
Yes, exactly, in 2022 I want to focus a bit more on rock for sure, but still do some comps to stay in business when it gets very serious again in 2023 ๐ Not sure about all my plans but I dream of getting back to Flatanger and travelling to La Ramirole for the first time ๐
How much did you try La Capella?
I briefly tried it on a day where I decided I had to give King Capella a break due to skin issues and then I did it 2nd try on the same day I sent King Capella (yesterday). So 5th tries in total.
What is next?
Iโll try the other routes from Will in the Capella sector on the last days and cheer on Alfons on Furia ๐. I just have a few days left, leaving back home on the 16th. Then some training at home and maybe a short Switzerland bouldering trip, then we will see, going with the flow ๐.
How have your climbing life been since the Olympics?
I spent almost the whole of October in Mallorca (for DWS), took a week of break and then started to prepare mostly for this trip + climbed outside at home. I just wanted to spend as much time on rock as possible after the Olympics since there wasnโt so much time for earlier.
What about 2022, focus on outdoors and the go full-on the Olympics again in 2023?
Yes, exactly, in 2022 I want to focus a bit more on rock for sure, but still do some comps to stay in business when it gets very serious again in 2023 ๐ Not sure about all my plans but I dream of getting back to Flatanger and travelling to La Ramirole for the first time ๐
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