15 June 2024

Hugo Parmentier FA's a new coastal MP and redpoints a Céüse testpiece

Hugo Parmentier has over the last month placed third at the French nationals, done the FA of the multi-pitch 1477 Sauvage (8b+) at the new crag Brezellec and redpointed Le Cadre Nouvelle Version (9a) in Céüse. ” Finally this line and moves felt appealing. Tried the first part as a warm up few times in the past and it always felt weird and uncomfortable. Went on it this year as a back up and it felt all of a sudden "incredible", hahha. [I spent] two days on the right one + one on this one, and then came back for a further four days for the left. Did the crux move with a really high right foot in the left hand pocket before the crimps and the two finger pocket as an intermediate. I feel like I could have done it the first day as I only ever fell on the bump up to the final crimp all along. But, the timing to stick it right was really hard in the end. Huge fight with no more endurance at the end of trip. Yeah!!” (c) Gilles Puyfagès

Can you tell us more about your latest multi-pitch adventure?
A few days ago I did an amazing multi-pitch on the coast of Bretagne in France. After a battle of 3 trips and 7 days, I’ve completed this perfect and complex line: "1477 Sauvage" (8b+, 7c+, 8a) above the water. The first pitch is marked by a huge horizontal dyno which makes the difficulty of the line. Then the second pitch is really complex and involves a hard-changing corner section which could be found in a modern gym. The last one is short, overhanging and powerful and involves hard undercling moves.

We bolted pretty incredible routes from 7a to 8c/+? on my last trip. It completes the 30 routes sectors going from 6a to 7c that my friends bolted in August. We hope this incredible area will have the light it deserves and the development will continue. We developed the sectors together with friends and there are still places for gems in this granite area! As the place is near the ocean the Titanium bolts won't last forever and we believe this area needs to be on the map so it will be preserved.

What are your summer plans?
This summer I’m going to spend quite some time on multi-pitches! I have Ratikon, Petit Clochet du Portalet, Verdon and Chamonix in my mind. But as always I’m better at improvising than at planning a lot! So let’s see, I’m also going to go surf in Hossegor for a week or two with the crew!

0 comments
Most commented
Jernej Kruder sends Martin Krpan (9a) sans knee pads

Jernej Kruder, who won the Boulder World Cup in 2018, has done Martin Krpan (9a) in Mišja Peč. “I would like to expose something here: I spent many tries on t…

Welcome to Vertical-Life Web

Six years after partnering with 8a.nu, we’re excited to announce the unification of the 8a.nu website and the Vertical-Life app into a single platform: Vertical…

Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)

William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…

Related
Le Cadre Nouvelle Version 9a by Jorge Diaz-Rullo

Jorge Diaz-Rullo, who previously has done 59 routes 9a and harder, has done Le Cadre Nouvelle Version (9a) in Céüse. Adam Ondra did the FA in 2010, avoiding a c…

Vojta Trojan has done Le Cadre Nouvelle Version (9a) in Céüse. "Incredibly happy for taking this one down! Amazing line, but mentally challenging." Adam Ondra did the FA in 2010 avoiding the chipped pockets on .

Victor Guillermin, 17, repeats Avaatara (9a)

Victor Guillermin, who last year made one podium in a Euro Youth Cup, has done the second ascent of Avaatara (9a) in Bataara Gorge. ”Incredible line in a sinkho…