Haruki Uemura ticks Estado Critico (9a) and Jungle Speed (8c+/9a)

Haruki Uemura, who did his first 9a last year, has sent Jungle Speed (8c+/9a) and Estado critico (9a) in Siurana. The 21-year-old Japanese climber won gold at the Youth World Championships in 2021 and, two years later, reached the finals in Briançon, which was his last World Cup.

Can you tell us more about your trip and the ascents?
I’m visiting Siurana for a month with Sachi [Amma]. It’s my first time back in a year. At the beginning of the trip, I went to the La Capella sector for the first time and tried Jungle Speed. Aside from the opening dyno, I was able to solve the moves quickly, and it felt very possible to send. After taking a rest, I sent it in the next session. It took me 7 tries.

For Estado Crítico, I managed to work out all the moves on my first try. On my third attempt, I fell on the final crux—the shoulder move. My fourth try was in perfect conditions with strong wind. The wind was pushing me around, and I felt like I might fall, but I managed to finish the route. I was able to send both routes quickly, and it really made me feel how much I’ve improved since last year. They were incredibly cool routes!

What is your next plan and why did you stop competing?
Competitions aren’t really for me. It’s hard for me to perform at my best when there are a lot of spectators watching and I’m competing against many other climbers. More than anything, I just don’t enjoy it that much.

Sending a 5.15a (9a+) route has been my biggest goal in climbing since I was a kid. Right now, I’m projecting Maturity at Gozeniwa in Tokyo. In Siurana, I’m hoping to try La Rambla and Furia de Jabali.