Gioia 8C/+ by Elias Iagnemma

Wednesday, 24 February

Elias Iagnemma reports on Insta that he has done Christian Core's Gioia in Varazze. The 25-year-old has previously done four 8C's saying Gioia is harder, suggesting the grade 8C/+. "I used knee pads which transform an extremely powerful move into an extremely technical one."

This route was put up in 2008 and Adam Ondra did the first repeat three years later suggesting an upgrade to 8C+. Core has later also said that this was correct, comparing it to other 8C's and before a new chipped crimper appeared in 2015. Full story of Gioia including comments from Core from last December.

Elias tells 8a that he needed 20 to 25 sessions over two years to take it down. "I only used the new method with the knee pads but it exactly respects the line and the original grips."The last picture shows his knee pad sequence avoiding the red dotted chipped crimp. There will be a video out tomorrow and later a longer video showing the entire process and some other boulders done in Varazze. (c)
Simone Antuzzi

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