Vertical-Life
Elias Iagnemma repeats Burden of Dreams- UPDATED!
"This is the perfect boulder. It is not about the grade. I live four hours from Alphane but instead, I have taken the plane and also travelled with my van to Finland. The process has been complicated with a finger injury, skin cuts, bad weather and frustration. I guess it took me 20-25 sessions spread over five trips. In the end, it was more like a mental battle. I know I had the power, maybe too much [power].
I copied the new healhook beta which Will Bosi found but didn't use. Then I found a new paddle [dyno] beta for the last dyno. On the day of the send, I was alone. I did not get to grab the holds perfectly but I was so motivated. A couple of weeks before I fell on the last move but this time I had a perfect mindset and could control the padel finishing dyno. I started screaming and then ran down to check if I got it on tape and then I called my wife and my parents. They have been such a great support."
Elias first checked Burden of Dreams in 2022 but got injured afterwards and on the following two trips he suffered from cuts and skin problems. He went back home and worked on a replica he created. Last September, he got married and then they drove to Finland for their honeymoon and he stayed there for seven weeks. He returned by plane in February, but had to go home due to bad weather, prior to returning four days ago and completing the boulder problem yesterday. All in all, the Italian has spent close to 80 days in Finland.
"I have not done any specific training in the last year. I have just been bouldering outdoors and trying to open new boulders. This is my passion. At the scene, [the BOD boulder] it was all about keeping calm, recovering and not overdoing it. This is something I have learnt. It is easy to get a finger cut on the first move [your tries are limited due to that]. [To pass time] I was watching Netflix, walking in the forest, and doing some training scheduling for some clients. The rest days have been very frustrating but well awarded."
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