Gio Placci does Captain Nemo (8C) and The New Abnormal (8B+)
During the last four months the Italian has done eight boulder problems 8B+ to 8C, in spite having had a finger injury for the first nine months of 2023. In 2022, he did three 9a+’s and was #21 in the Lead WC in Edinburgh.
Can you tell us more about Nemo and New Abnormal?
The breakdown is about 8B+ soft into knee bar rest into the stand that is 8A+. It is for sure one of the best hard boulders I have ever tried. Five small sessions [for Nemo] and three for Abnormal. I used a different beta compared to Jimmy’s beta , that’s why I think 8B+ is a right grade.
What are you looking to do next?
It is time to switch to my real discipline that’s lead! World Cup final and climb hard routes but I still don’t know which ones.
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