18 February 2024

Gio Placci does Captain Nemo (8C) and The New Abnormal (8B+)

Gio Placci has done The New Abnormal (8B+) and Captain Nemo (8C) in Valle Bavona. “Such a gem! Shout out to my blood bro Pietro Vidi for the FA. Captain Nemo is the sit start to Finding Nemo (8A+). ”

During the last four months the Italian has done eight boulder problems 8B+ to 8C, in spite having had a finger injury for the first nine months of 2023. In 2022, he did three 9a+’s and was #21 in the Lead WC in Edinburgh.

Can you tell us more about Nemo and New Abnormal?
The breakdown is about 8B+ soft into knee bar rest into the stand that is 8A+. It is for sure one of the best hard boulders I have ever tried. Five small sessions [for Nemo] and three for Abnormal. I used a different beta compared to Jimmy’s beta , that’s why I think 8B+ is a right grade.

What are you looking to do next?
It is time to switch to my real discipline that’s lead! World Cup final and climb hard routes but I still don’t know which ones.
Most commented
Jernej Kruder sends Martin Krpan (9a) sans knee pads

Jernej Kruder, who won the Boulder World Cup in 2018, has done Martin Krpan (9a) in Mišja Peč. “I would like to expose something here: I spent many tries on t…

Welcome to Vertical-Life Web

Six years after partnering with 8a.nu, we’re excited to announce the unification of the 8a.nu website and the Vertical-Life app into a single platform: Vertical…

Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)

William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…

Gio Placci completes 4-Lo (8C)

Gio Placci, who did four 9a+' in 2022, has repeated Daniel Woods’ 4-Lo (8C) in Valle Bavona. ”Soft with the new beta. Three days of tries. Really fun climb.”(c)…

 Pietro Vidi does two 8C's

Pietro Vidi has had a great start of 2024 in Valle Bavona by first repeating 4-Lo (8C) and later doing the FA of Captain Nemo (8C), which is a sit start to Find…

Niccolò Ceria does Off the Wagon Sit (8C+)

Niccolò Ceria has repeated Shawn Raboutou’s Off the Wagon Sit (8C+) in Valle Bavona, Insta video. Could you tell us more about the ascent and how many session…