Ghisolfi going for 9b+ FA and Tokyo

Stefano Ghisolfi has been #2 in the Lead World Cup the last two years at the same time he has done four 9b's as well as a 9b+, last December. This year his focus is qualifying to the Olympics and he just won the Italian Cup in Bouldering. When it comes to Speed he was the Italian Champion in 2010 at 7.96 which has made him take it kind of slow with the Speed focus until now. In other words, the Italian is both one of the best rock climbers at the same time he is one of the contenders for a medal in Tokyo 2020. (c) Sara Grippo from Queen Line 9b he did three days ago. How have you been training this winter and what is your next focus? After Perfecto Mundo (9b+), in January and February my focus has been mostly competition bouldering, I trained a lot on my weakness (slabs, coordination, jumps) and in February I was already improving and I won the first Italian Cup. During the week I choose to go rock climbing for one day per week, and I started trying the Queen line. The focus continues to be bouldering and improving in speed too, I'm running around 8 seconds The comps I planned to do are the first four of bouldering, and all the lead circuit, and some of the speed ones. The main focus will be Tokyo and Tolouse if I don't qualify in Tokyo. I hope to do under 7.50, I think it could be enough for qualifying, but i could be wrong. I will continue climbing outdoor once a week, I'm lucky to live in Arco so I can go half day outdoor and even train in the afternoon, Laghel is just 10 minutes from home. Now I will try another project there, the King Line, that has a harder ending to the Queen Line and is at least 9b+, and there are still other 2 possible 9b or harder routes there, my rock projects for this year will be close to home so I can still focus on training without traveling too much, because I will travel a lot for competition already. What kind of impact will the Olympics have for the federations and the athletes? Olympics had a strong impact in our federation, the focus now is 100% on the people who want and can qualify for Tokyo and want to train in the combined, and unfortunately the choose not to have specialist (for the single discipline) in the world cup circuit, so many strong climbers in bouldering and speed will be cut out the world cup circuit to let the combined climbers to compete. There will be a huge split between competition climbers (that will try to qualify for Tokyo) and rock climbers (probably all the specialist who cannot compete in the world cup will focus on rock climbing).