30 November 2019
Gancho perfecto 9a (+) by Domen ล kofic
Domen ล kofic, Lead WC winnwe in 2016 and #3 2018, has done Gancho perfecto suggesting an upgrade to 9a+. It was put up by Chris Sharma as a 9a but then pretty much everyone who has done it has said it is hard for that grade or suggested 9a+. (c) Jan Novak
"Yesterday everything came together with my in point movement, perfect conditions, perfect crew, and just enough skin for that one proper try. This route gave me a big and precious lesson. My first feelings on the route were great and I was sure I will send it fast but that was not the case Process lasted for three whole weeks, I spent a lot of tries on it, I pulled my tendon just after few days on it and I felt like I wonโt be able to climb in Margalef for a very long time.
I spent resting and healing my skin more than ever in my climbing career. I had to wait two weeks and climb other routes that my skin would heal enough to try it again. I had 3 good tries separated in 3 days. The third one was the one and the feeling was and still is amazing. Itโs for sure one of the best and the hardest routes I have ever done. This is my 17th 9a or harder and in my opinion, it deserves a grade of 9a+."
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