
27 March 2022
Gypsy Blood 8c+ and JoeDan 8c+ (9a) by Domen Skofic
Domen ล kofic, overall Lead WC winner in 2016, has spent the last six weeks mainly climbing in Santa Linya. In the last few days he has done Gypsy Blood (8c+) and JoeDan 8c+ (9a). "I definitely agree to be 9a. Especially without kneepads." (c) Jonathan Siegrist
How come you do not use kneepads? Have you ever tried to adapt to this style?
I like to climb as free as possible and if I feel like I can do a route without a kneepad I prefer to do it that way even if it takes longer to send. I believe that as long as I compete, this climbing style doesnโt help me much.
How was the process taking down the two 8c+' and what happened to your big 9b project?
My power went down the last two weeks and I just wanted to have more fun on the last days before I leave. I actually had to stop trying Stoking the Fire (9b) 3 weeks ago because my knee was getting to painful at the dropknee crux at the bottom. Actually my best attempts were on my first week of coming to the cave and then I felt like Iโm doing no progress but I decided to keep on trying. Itโs hard for me to project on one thing for more than a week but I want to learn this. I admire people that can stay super focused on one route and make progress. Since my knee started to hurt I switched my focus to and I hoped my knee will get better for Stoking. I feel tired from being in the cave that long but Iโm motivated to try hard the last two days and I will be very happy if I can finish Catxasa before I leave.
How do you compare Stoking... 9b with the first 9b you did (Ali Baba sit start extension)?
They are not even close. But I do believe that Stoking is a very hard 9b. Before coming to Spain I was even considering going for either Stoking or Perfecto Mundo because I think this two are not too far apart. Catxasa without kneepad is much harder than Ali Hulk thatโs for sure ๐
How come you do not use kneepads? Have you ever tried to adapt to this style?
I like to climb as free as possible and if I feel like I can do a route without a kneepad I prefer to do it that way even if it takes longer to send. I believe that as long as I compete, this climbing style doesnโt help me much.
How was the process taking down the two 8c+' and what happened to your big 9b project?
My power went down the last two weeks and I just wanted to have more fun on the last days before I leave. I actually had to stop trying Stoking the Fire (9b) 3 weeks ago because my knee was getting to painful at the dropknee crux at the bottom. Actually my best attempts were on my first week of coming to the cave and then I felt like Iโm doing no progress but I decided to keep on trying. Itโs hard for me to project on one thing for more than a week but I want to learn this. I admire people that can stay super focused on one route and make progress. Since my knee started to hurt I switched my focus to and I hoped my knee will get better for Stoking. I feel tired from being in the cave that long but Iโm motivated to try hard the last two days and I will be very happy if I can finish Catxasa before I leave.
How do you compare Stoking... 9b with the first 9b you did (Ali Baba sit start extension)?
They are not even close. But I do believe that Stoking is a very hard 9b. Before coming to Spain I was even considering going for either Stoking or Perfecto Mundo because I think this two are not too far apart. Catxasa without kneepad is much harder than Ali Hulk thatโs for sure ๐
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