
19 October 2018
Hours and outdoors are what counts for youngsters
Adam Ondra is the best climber in the history and he is also probably also the one, relatively to his age, who has climbed most hours in the world. Sure there great short term physical training programs which will make you improve but the #1 criteria to have a long term progress is how many fun challenging hours you put in.
A coach that can motivate her/his group to train and challenge themselves 20 hours a week, is probably much more successful in comparison to the best physical climbing trainer in the world, motivating the group just 10 hours a week. At the same time a youngster that not also love outdoors, if possible, will have hard time to keep the hours and motivation during the summer.
"I love training as much as competition!" is a recent quote from Akiyo Noguchi which also Ondra and other top climbers often say in public. Ondra interview from when he was 11-years-old. "More meters, more experiences, more fun!"
The bottom line is that you and the coaches should carefully pay attention of what motivates the youngsters in order to make them climb 20 hours a week. This might of course be a training programmed but it can also just be climbing. Everyone is unique but it is a fact that most of the best climbers did not have any coaches focusing on short term progress through strict training programs, when they were kids.
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
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Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโฆ
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25 March 2008
Ondra does something hard, again...
Jamie Emerson is currently in Switzerland where he and his friends are steadily sending hard and classic problems. In visiting Cresciano he ran into Adam Ondra making quick work of Dreamtime, 8B+.
A video of Adam on the problem can be found on Jamie's website where you can also find high quality phโฆ
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28 September 2008
European Youth Series - Imst
1. 89: Fabrice landry FRA - Matilde Brumagne BEL
1. 91: Mario Lechner AUT - Dinara Fakhritdinova RUS
1. 93: Adam Ondra CZE - Berit Schwaiger AUT
Overall, the Austrians dominated as always and in the youngest female category, 4 out of the Top-7 were Austrian girls born -94!
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25 March 2008
Ondra does something hard, again...
Jamie Emerson is currently in Switzerland where he and his friends are steadily sending hard and classic problems. In visiting Cresciano he ran into Adam Ondra making quick work of Dreamtime, 8B+.
A video of Adam on the problem can be found on Jamie's website where you can also find high quality phโฆ
22 September 2008
8c+ (9a) by Adam Ondra & Bock
Adam Ondra has done two 8c+'s in Frankenjura, Planets Collide and Matador which Markus Bock put up in 2007 and suggested 9a for. Adam says, "in my opinion more 8c+ than 9a, but others should feel free to say more about grade". He also did Showdown, 8c "Stiff grading from nineties, I was very lucky".โฆ
28 September 2008
European Youth Series - Imst
1. 89: Fabrice landry FRA - Matilde Brumagne BEL
1. 91: Mario Lechner AUT - Dinara Fakhritdinova RUS
1. 93: Adam Ondra CZE - Berit Schwaiger AUT
Overall, the Austrians dominated as always and in the youngest female category, 4 out of the Top-7 were Austrian girls born -94!
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
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26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ


