Five 8A's by Lilli Kiesgen
3 June 2023
Can you tell us more about the five 8A ascents?
We spent two days in Zillertal on our way from Innsbruck to Prague. I’m just on vacation in Prague and cheering for Yannick ☺️. The day didn’t start that well, we parked the van in the wrong parking spot and were pretty lost for an hour. When we finally reached the crag I started to warm up directly in the moves of Clockwork Orange. Surprisingly they didn’t feel hard and I could climb the boulder on my second try from the bottom. Afterwards, we went to Analdin - a real gem in the Forest! The holds and the line is just perfect. It took a bit until I figured out the moves around the sloper in the middle section, but I was still able to climb the boulder within an hour.
We were tired of walking around (and climbing!) so we did a break, cooked some tortellini and napped a bit. In the afternoon I just wanted to take a look at mother firestarter. I got hooked and climbed it after a really short warmup. I think two essential things got together yesterday, I was in the right mood and the conditions were good - not too warm and not too cold.
True romance is right beside the river and has mainly crimps. I figured out a beta with a toe hook so I don’t have to do the powerful extension move. Jam Session is a roof with some heel hook moves and a crimpy top out. The main crux was for me the far move with a bad foot over the edge. None of the boulders I did took long- I think that is essential if you want to climb a lot in a day.
Why do you think you are in such excellent shape?
I think my fitness increased so much because I started to train my weaknesses - steep walls with far moves on good or slopy holds. In the last year, I mostly trained on spray walls and on the Kilterboard and I think that is paying off now.
12 January 2023
Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi has done Open your mind (8c+) in Santa Linya. The Ukrainian made his first 8a news at age eleven when he did his first three 8c’s as we…
21 January 2023
During the last few years, we have seen plenty of advancement when it comes to redpointing ability globally. In just the last three years, we saw close to 150 9a+ ascents which can be compared to only ten 9a+ ascents per year, last decade. Ten years ago, Alex Megos onsighted Estado critico (9a) but…
2 February 2023
Yannick Flohé, who last week did his second 8C+, has done the FA of Return of the Dreamtime (8C+) in Cresciano. "Start like Dreamtime but go right after the Dyno and finish on Somnolence (8B).". This has been an open project for many years and links 8B/+ into 8B.
26 April 2022
Eva Hammelmüller, who last year did her first 8c+/9a, has done The Antwoord (8A+) and Clockwork Orange (8A) Zillergrund Wald. (c) Felix Mast "I tried "Clockwo…
7 April 2022
Christof Rauch has done Walk the line (9a) in Zillertal. "This was intense! My longest route climbing project and the hardest route I climbed so far! Maybe it d…
14 April 2022
Staša Gejo stopped by in Zillertal on her way back home after being #6 in Meiringen, (c) Martin Rahn, and did a very quick ascent of El Gauhara (8A+). ”Did the …
14 April 2023
William Bosi has done the coveted second ascent of Nalle Hukkataival's Burden of Dreams (9A) in Lappnor, Finland, confirming the 9A grade. It was put up as the …
6 September 2023
Katie Lamb has become the first woman to climb 8C+ by completing Box Therapy (8C+) in RMNP. Daniel Woods made the FA back in 2018, and only Drew Ruana and Sean …
30 March 2023
Chris Sharma strikes again by doing the FA of Sleeping Lion 9b+ in Siurana, after projecting it for one and a half years years at age 41. The route is located o…