Bombardino 9a+ by Gio Placci

Gio Placci has done the second repeat of Adam Ondra's Bombardino (9a+) in Arco. "In 4 days, maybe 9a/+ but almost impossible to grade. The beta for me and Stefano (Ghisolfi) is completely different from Adam’s one, it’s way easy 😅 . The route is 8b+ then really good rest and then a boulder with a really hard first move from a bad small crimp to a small two finger pocket."

How can you explain having done your first three 9a+' in just six weeks?
I think I’m growing a lot as a rock climber. I’m more focused on the small details and this help a lot. Anyway, I’m not actually climbing a lot outside (one day per week) I’m training for my trip to Spain.

What is the ambition for 2023, and what about the Olympics?
My goal for next year is the lead world cup and my dream is to make a final! Also, I want to try Erebor (9b) after the comp season. For the Olympic games, I think my level in boulder is too low to be qualified, so my plans are focused on 2028’s games

How often do you train and how do you train?
I train almost every day. Sometimes I rest to grow my skin. I do fingerboard, campus board, and physical preparation. I climb 5 days per week either in Arco or in Milano. I love training, I’m always the one who finishes the session the last 😅.