21 December 2018
Estado Critico 9a (8c+) by Lucas Marques (37)
Lucas Marques has done Estado Critico in Siurana famous for being onsighted by Alex Megos as the first 9a in the world. Later 8c+ have been suggested or indicated by some. In total, the superb route has 35 ascents making it the most popular 9a in the world. (c) 100 limite filmes
"Such a great route! Long, bit bouldery and pumpy to the end. Hard shoulder moves in the end. So fanatic! About the grade it is harder than all the 8c+ I ever try and did, also, who am I to downgrade the first 9a onsight of the world. Lets celebrate and have fun! Thank you everybody who support me along this journey... Brasilll!!!Vamooo!!!
It took some months on 'real tries' last season and around 15 tries this season. I trained with the Brazilian coach Gustavo Fontes for a month that gave me the last power I needed. After all I was prepared and in a perfect day it came by it self. Was a hard mental battle for me..."
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