13 December 2024

Erwan Legrand, 16, FA's a very old 8c+ project

Erwan Legrand, who did his first 9a this spring, has done the FA of Les Loges De La Fuite (8c+) in Gorges du Tarn. Erwan's father is Francois Legrand who won five Lead World Cups and three World Championships during the 90'ies.

Can you tell us more about FA?
After sending an 8b flash and an amazing 8c called Adieu Wolfgang on my fifth try of the day, I was pretty tired, and I had time to do something else. So, I was looking for a route no one was trying, and I saw this line, which inspired me. I asked for some information from a local, who told me it was a project bolted 30 years ago estimated to 8c+/9a. I did two goes that day and loved it and it fit me quite well, so I decided to try again the next few days. The day after, I checked the moves again and then I decided to try from the ground. On the first crux, I had been fighting for my life but then I was reaching a small rest, recovering a bit, going for another crux before I reached another rest before the final boulder. At that moment I realized that I was going to send the route and came to the final move but was just too pumped and failed there.

After a long rest, I made two other attempts but fell at the first crux. It was frustrating after being so close on my first try, but I gave it another try. I managed the first boulder with a lot of margins, then climbed quite easily up to the final crux. I felt pretty fresh and determined, so I gave everything I had and finally made that last move. I was really happy about that send especially because it was really unexpected. About the grade, it definitely didn't feel like a 9a as I was able to send it in only 2 days but the next one will tell. The route is amazing with very beautiful holds in a perfect wall, and I really loved it, I hope more people will try it.
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