Enrique Beltrán Blasco ticks The Full Journey (9b)

Enrique Beltrán Blasco, who sent his first two 9a+’ three months ago, has done The Full Journey (9b) in Margalef. It was bolted by Tom Bolger and Alex Megos did the first ascent in 2022. (c) Jorge Diaz-Rullo

Can you tell us more about doing your first 9b and the process behind?
To be honest, I didn’t choose that route for any particular reason. I’d been climbing at Finestra for a year and a half, so it was the logical next step.

The full journey is divided in two parts. The 9a+ first anchor has a very prominent boulder problem where two holds broke, making it harder now. It has a stamina section that leaves you tired by the time you reach a good rest halfway through. That’s where the second pitch begins: three very dynamic moves that lead you to the boulder problem of the second part, a small crimp with a heel and a one-finger hold. From there, it’s eight moves of pure endurance where you can fall many times.

The process was quick as I was very adapted to the wall. Also, January and February, when it rained a lot, I took advantage of the time to train and felt very fit. From the first day, I was able to make quality attempts.

The most difficult thing has been managing my time. I work as a route setter which takes up a lot of my time and is difficult to juggle. It stressed me out not having many days to send it, but at the same time, it made me very motivated. Focused on the task and making the most of my attempts.

I think it might be 9b but to be honest I’m a bit lost regarding grades right now. I feel very fit and well adapted, and if three references like Megos, Stefano, and Jorge say it’s 9b, it might be, but to be honest, I’m very lost when it comes to grading.

What is next?
The main objective was to do a 9b, not this specific line, but it was certainly the logical thing to do. I’ve started trying a bit of Perfecto Mundo. In summer I will do a specific training for this but now I’m more focused on the upcoming season of work and training. I’ll be setting the routes for the Madrid Bouldering World Cup, so I’ll have to train a bit.