28 September 2023
Ego Death (8C) FA by Keenan Takahashi
Keenan Takahashi, who did his first 8C+ in July, has made the FA of Ego Death (8C) at Mount Blue Sky.
โI was shown a photo of this prow project in early July, and thought it looked like one of the best boulders in Colorado. At the time I was close on Insomniac (V16) and so focused on finishing that first before checking it out. After finishing Insomniac, I was feeling pretty exhausted after 2 months of hiking and projecting, so much so that I actually got sick. But I really wanted to go see it, so I went out with my friends Kevin and Ethan to the zone, which I hadnโt been to before, and finally tried the prow.
Immediately upon walking up to it, I knew it was something special if it was possible. Itโs the sort of thing Iโve dreamed of since I started climbing, steep compression, at my limit, decently tall but safe, and such fun movement. An amazing combo of technique and power.
I surprised myself by doing all the moves the first session, but I was feeling in for sure my best shape and the style really plays to my strengths. Once I realized it was possible, I couldnโt get it out of my head, and was really fixated.
I had to wait to recover from being sick, which took a longer time than anticipated, but I finally went back with Katie (Lamb) and we tried for a few hours. She was second day on, so only tried a bit, but I seshed for a while and made some key links, doing it in two overlapping parts. For the first time since doing A Little Life, I couldnโt sleep because I was thinking about the line too much.
After a lot of rest, I went back again, this time alone as Katie was resting. I found a new mental space Iโve never had before, fully calm and really happy to be there, truly not caring if I did it. I knew Iโd try until it would get done. Then, on the wall, I climbed perfectly. The sort of moment I always wish for but have only had one other time, on Kintsugi in 2018. I barely stuck the crux and then had a minor error in the easier upper bit but very fortunately didnโt punt. I deal with ego like everyone else, but the name stems from the flow on the wall, as โIโ really ceased to exist, there was just awareness and breath.
All told, for sure one of the best experiences Iโve ever had, in any aspect of my life.
As for the grade: Drew Ruana tried a couple of days, as well as Griffin Whiteside the year before. Drew was trying a different sequence at the top, which sounded really nails, but we both felt it was a big step up from V14s in that style and agreed V15 seemed more than fair. Iโm curious what other folks think, but more than anything Iโm just so stoked to have had such a fun time trying such an incredible bloc and hope other people like it too!โ
โI was shown a photo of this prow project in early July, and thought it looked like one of the best boulders in Colorado. At the time I was close on Insomniac (V16) and so focused on finishing that first before checking it out. After finishing Insomniac, I was feeling pretty exhausted after 2 months of hiking and projecting, so much so that I actually got sick. But I really wanted to go see it, so I went out with my friends Kevin and Ethan to the zone, which I hadnโt been to before, and finally tried the prow.
Immediately upon walking up to it, I knew it was something special if it was possible. Itโs the sort of thing Iโve dreamed of since I started climbing, steep compression, at my limit, decently tall but safe, and such fun movement. An amazing combo of technique and power.
I surprised myself by doing all the moves the first session, but I was feeling in for sure my best shape and the style really plays to my strengths. Once I realized it was possible, I couldnโt get it out of my head, and was really fixated.
I had to wait to recover from being sick, which took a longer time than anticipated, but I finally went back with Katie (Lamb) and we tried for a few hours. She was second day on, so only tried a bit, but I seshed for a while and made some key links, doing it in two overlapping parts. For the first time since doing A Little Life, I couldnโt sleep because I was thinking about the line too much.
After a lot of rest, I went back again, this time alone as Katie was resting. I found a new mental space Iโve never had before, fully calm and really happy to be there, truly not caring if I did it. I knew Iโd try until it would get done. Then, on the wall, I climbed perfectly. The sort of moment I always wish for but have only had one other time, on Kintsugi in 2018. I barely stuck the crux and then had a minor error in the easier upper bit but very fortunately didnโt punt. I deal with ego like everyone else, but the name stems from the flow on the wall, as โIโ really ceased to exist, there was just awareness and breath.
All told, for sure one of the best experiences Iโve ever had, in any aspect of my life.
As for the grade: Drew Ruana tried a couple of days, as well as Griffin Whiteside the year before. Drew was trying a different sequence at the top, which sounded really nails, but we both felt it was a big step up from V14s in that style and agreed V15 seemed more than fair. Iโm curious what other folks think, but more than anything Iโm just so stoked to have had such a fun time trying such an incredible bloc and hope other people like it too!โ
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