Dylan Chuat does Change P1 9a (+)

Dylan Chuat, who has done five 9a and harder the last five months, has sent Change P1 (9a+) in Flatanger, giving it a personal 9a grade. Now he is working on Move (9b).

”I find the crux super interesting and really fun to climb (nothing to do with what I expected). Originally, without a knee pad, Adam's [Ondra] method was a real 8B+ block and looked super traumatic for the shoulders. Now, with the new method, I would say it's more of a 7C block. So yes, the way is clearly easier today. For me, it's more of a mid-range 9a than a 9a+. But whatever, it was really a great time to climb this route!”

Can you tell us more about the new beta and what about Move?
The new methods aren't mine — Change was more of a side project for me. I didn’t really put in many tries, so I didn’t work much on beta. These “new” methods have actually been around for several years already; it’s just that, in my opinion, some of the repeaters after Adam weren’t completely honest when they said it didn’t change the grade, haha.

As for Move, I haven’t been able to get in many sessions because the conditions have been awful, but I did manage a really big link yesterday, so it’s looking promising. That said, I don’t have much time left.