
21 September 2024
Domen Skofic ticks Illusionist (9a)
Domen ล kofic, the overall Lead World Cup winner in 2016, has done Illusionist (9a) Flatanger. In total, the Slovenian has done 26 routes 9a to 9b. (c) Doug McConnell
Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Iโll be honest that the line never inspired me but the unique and incredibly technical moves make this route great ๐ฅ I got a good lesson on it and Iโm very grateful for that. No matter how strong you feel on the moves youโll still fail if you donโt stay present and do one step at the time focusing on the little details ๐ The send go was orgasmic as my feet and hands were falling on perfect spots the whole way ๐ฅ
How is your project status with Move?
I did two tries from the ground and on my second one I already felt pretty much ready for it. โฆbut I can be also far away because is just so hard to do everything perfectly after so much climbing.
I have to go back on the 30.9. So 6 more climbing days. It could be enough if the crack stays dry. Anyway Iโm not stressing about it, the thing that makes me happy is that Iโm finally feeling Iโm making progress in my climbing again :)
Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Iโll be honest that the line never inspired me but the unique and incredibly technical moves make this route great ๐ฅ I got a good lesson on it and Iโm very grateful for that. No matter how strong you feel on the moves youโll still fail if you donโt stay present and do one step at the time focusing on the little details ๐ The send go was orgasmic as my feet and hands were falling on perfect spots the whole way ๐ฅ
How is your project status with Move?
I did two tries from the ground and on my second one I already felt pretty much ready for it. โฆbut I can be also far away because is just so hard to do everything perfectly after so much climbing.
I have to go back on the 30.9. So 6 more climbing days. It could be enough if the crack stays dry. Anyway Iโm not stressing about it, the thing that makes me happy is that Iโm finally feeling Iโm making progress in my climbing again :)
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
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(c) Sara Grippo
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Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
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Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
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