Dicktopia 8C by Austin Purdy

Tuesday, 27 April

Austin Purdy, who previously has done 67 8B's and 16 8B+', has done his second 8C, Dicktopia in Camp Dick. Video on his Insta. "The picture is from a session in the mid-afternoon when the wildfires were getting quite bad. It is actually not dark out the res tint and darkness is because of the thick smoke in the air.

I first started working this boulder in the fall and made good progress, however, I had to stop going to it due to extreme conditions because of wildfires in the area. I was hoping to return to it this spring, but again that was difficult due to snow, cold conditions, and a sprained ankle I injured falling off a highball in Hueco Tanks. So instead, I have mostly been focusing on training these past few months. It seems like that training has paid off because I was able to send the easier variation to this boulder, Little Richard (8B+/V14), quite quickly when I came back to it and Dicktopia soon after."

Could you please also comment on your extremely wide grade pyramid?
As for the grade pyramid, I really enjoy pushing myself and climbing at my limit, but I feel like many climbers are only interested in climbing boulders with higher numbers near their max grade. For me though, just because I can climb 8C doesn’t mean I don’t have fun climbing 8As just because it isn’t my limit. In fact, I feel like one of the great things about climbing harder is it gives you the ability to send so many more cool boulders because you can do them quickly, and some of my most enjoyable climbing days have been ones where I try and do as many 7C+/8A’s as possible instead of failing on something near my limit.

2  C O M M E N T S:
Sort by: Date D Reply A



Tuesday, 19 January

Add crags to the database

We can now manually add new crags to the data base. Just make a comment and the data base will be improved and you can automatically create Tick Lists and add crag info etc.


Monday, 12 October

Systematic Devaluing ethics

Debate/Jens: In trad climbing you are not allowed to have the gear or quickdraws in place and it was also like this in the beginning of the sport climbing era. Some ten years ago, you still had to place the draws if you were going to claim an onsight. The devaluation of ethics have continued and now…


Wednesday, 18 May

No correlation between semi and final results for Top-4 in Boulder WCs

During the Bouldering World Championship in 2007, Daniel Dulac won the semifinal by flashing all four problems but in the final he did not do a single Boulder even if each of the other five finalists did three problems on average. Daniel said that it was extremely frustrating to hear the spectators …