Der schwarze Schwan first 8c by Julia Fiser


Friday, 8 May

Julia Fiser, Top-21 in the last four WC's, has come out the lockdown in great shape. Instead of preparing for Lead World Cups she is climbing outdoors and has done her first 8c, Der schwarze Schwan in Ötztal. (c) Katerina Fiser "The lockdown in Austria started on March 15th. We were only allowed to leave the house for basic human needs. So I spent a lot of time hanging on my hangboard on the balcony and doing different exercises to stay fit. One thing that helped me a lot to stay motivated was that the whole Austria climbing team did these sessions together online via live stream. A few weeks ago restrictions loosened up a bit, which meant we were allowed to do sports outside again. Since then, I’ve been spending a lot of time climbing outside, mostly trying to avoid crowded crags. I was surprised how good and confident I felt after a few climbing days so I decided it would be cool to try something hard, now that I have a lot of time to climb outside instead of preparing for the Lead world cups in the summer. It was always a dream of mine to climb 8c and this route seemed the most logical because it’s basically a wall with just this route and one 8a next to it, so there are never many people around. In the first session I just checked out the moves and although I did all the single moves, I felt really uncomfortable on the wall. I have not done such hard moves in a very long time, so I guess that was the reason for that. But I made some really fast progress and felt better and better every try and yesterday, on my 4th session on the route this year (and 5th sessions in total), I managed to send it first try."

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