Coup de Grace 9a by Gio Placci
18 months ago, you were #77 in the Italian Boulder Cup. How can you explain your amazing progress in the comp scene?
This year I trained a lot for the comp and I climbed less outside. The first part of the year I was focusing on boulder comps, but they didn’t go as expected. The last comp was the Italian championship in Bologna. I didn’t have any expectations. My training for the lead comps had already started and I did that comp just for fun. Sometimes to not have any pressure is good and somehow I managed to become the Italian boulder champion!
Then the lead season started and for me, this was my first year as a Senior, in the first World Cup I couldn’t show my potential, too much pressure. Then I worked a lot in my mindset and in the last one I managed to make the semifinal (Kranj) and after one week I managed to win my first Italian lead cup!
Jernej Kruder sends Martin Krpan (9a) sans knee pads
Jernej Kruder, who won the Boulder World Cup in 2018, has done Martin Krpan (9a) in Mišja Peč. “I would like to expose something here: I spent many tries on t…
Welcome to Vertical-Life Web
Six years after partnering with 8a.nu, we’re excited to announce the unification of the 8a.nu website and the Vertical-Life app into a single platform: Vertical…
Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)
William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…
Beginning 9a+ by Gio Placci
Gio Placci, who was #13 in the Innsbruck World Cup, has done Beginning (9a+) in Eremo di San Paolo. "Too many tries ...... Amazing route to try. First real pro…
Gio Placci has made a quick ascent of The Story Of 2 Worlds (8C) in Cresciano, which in practice is a sit start to The Dagger. "8B+, after having done The Dagger, it took me just 2 hours to send the whole line, so I’m sure it is not 8C." Gio says that the left kneebar right at the start of 2 Worlds …
Gio Placci completes 4-Lo (8C)
Gio Placci, who did four 9a+' in 2022, has repeated Daniel Woods’ 4-Lo (8C) in Valle Bavona. ”Soft with the new beta. Three days of tries. Really fun climb.”(c)…
Beginning 9a+ by Gio Placci
Gio Placci, who was #13 in the Innsbruck World Cup, has done Beginning (9a+) in Eremo di San Paolo. "Too many tries ...... Amazing route to try. First real pro…
Gio Placci has made a quick ascent of The Story Of 2 Worlds (8C) in Cresciano, which in practice is a sit start to The Dagger. "8B+, after having done The Dagger, it took me just 2 hours to send the whole line, so I’m sure it is not 8C." Gio says that the left kneebar right at the start of 2 Worlds …
Gio Placci completes 4-Lo (8C)
Gio Placci, who did four 9a+' in 2022, has repeated Daniel Woods’ 4-Lo (8C) in Valle Bavona. ”Soft with the new beta. Three days of tries. Really fun climb.”(c)…
Katie Lamb makes history
Katie Lamb has become the first woman to climb 8C+ by completing Box Therapy (8C) in RMNP. Daniel Woods made the FA back in 2018, and only Drew Ruana and Sean B…
Schubert sends Project Big during his 6th Live attempt
"It was dramatic to the very end." On the 8a finish of Project Big in Flatanger, Jakob Schubert explains that a horn broke and he was close to falling. The last three minutes of the video show just how much this climb means to him."This horn could have ended my career... This was the biggest mental …
Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)
William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…