Coup de Grace 9a by Gio Placci

Gio Placci, Italian Boulder and Lead winner in 2021, has done Coup de Grace in Ticino after just three days. "Coupe de grace has always inspired m. I watched a lot of videos of the route and it seemed amazing. After the finish of the world cups, I decided to try it. Two weeks ago I came there two days to check the route. For me, the harder part was the lower one because of the longs moves but the upper part felt easy. This weekend I returned. The temperatures were good and on the first day of the weekend, I sent it!"
18 months ago, you were #77 in the Italian Boulder Cup. How can you explain your amazing progress in the comp scene?
This year I trained a lot for the comp and I climbed less outside. The first part of the year I was focusing on boulder comps, but they didn’t go as expected. The last comp was the Italian championship in Bologna. I didn’t have any expectations. My training for the lead comps had already started and I did that comp just for fun. Sometimes to not have any pressure is good and somehow I managed to become the Italian boulder champion!

Then the lead season started and for me, this was my first year as a Senior, in the first World Cup I couldn’t show my potential, too much pressure. Then I worked a lot in my mindset and in the last one I managed to make the semifinal (Kranj) and after one week I managed to win my first Italian lead cup!