
24 October 2022
Compass North 8B+ by Marine Thevenet
Marine Thevenet reports on Insta that she has repeated Compass North (8B+) in Fionnay after just some 5-6 sessions. (c) Clement Lechaptois, who did the FA and commented. "Starts as Underground paradise and Fuck the system, and goes straight into the grey 45 panel in the other side of the big cave. Basic climbing on crimps!"
Can you fill us in on this climb and your send?
I tried a few with Clรฉment when it still was a project, but at that time I couldnโt figure out the crux (mostly due to a pulley injury). I came back in good shape after Rocklands and I focused on the end to be sure that, when I will pass the crux I will not fall! The reality was really different ๐ I fell quite a lot in the "easy part"!
After sending Zima Blue (8B) in august I tried it from the bottom! I did a lot of Moonboard to have contact strength, and some stamina on the Smartboard cause the boulder is a little bit long!
Can you fill us in on this climb and your send?
I tried a few with Clรฉment when it still was a project, but at that time I couldnโt figure out the crux (mostly due to a pulley injury). I came back in good shape after Rocklands and I focused on the end to be sure that, when I will pass the crux I will not fall! The reality was really different ๐ I fell quite a lot in the "easy part"!
After sending Zima Blue (8B) in august I tried it from the bottom! I did a lot of Moonboard to have contact strength, and some stamina on the Smartboard cause the boulder is a little bit long!
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
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Compass North 8B+ flash by Daniel Woods
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