21 August 2025
Clรฉment Lechaptois does Power of now direct (8C)
Clรฉment Lechaptois, with a dozen 8Cโs and beyond under his belt, has completed Power of now direct (8C) in Magic Wood. The last holds are 150 cm apart, so at 170 cm the French climber really had to stretch for it. (c) Nina Arthaud
Can you tell us more about the ascent, your tactics behind doing the big dyno and your ape index?
I didnโt have any special tactics. My arm span is 181cm. So I am pretty lucky I would say! I just remember that I tried the boulder maybe 4 or 5 years and it seemed too reachy back then. Maybe I just wasnโt strong enough. The boulder is just so nice and pure that I wanted to try once again and see if I could have a chance.
Suprisingly I did all the moves quickly this time. The problem for me was to be fresh enough for the last move coming from the bottom.
Session after session I felt better on the intro. I sent it on my second or 3rd try on session 4.
What are your autumn plans?
Nothing sure yet! Maybe try a bit Solitary daze low, if the conditions are good. But I am thinking about going to Japan. Otherwise Ticino is always a good option! Still undecided :)
Can you tell us more about the ascent, your tactics behind doing the big dyno and your ape index?
I didnโt have any special tactics. My arm span is 181cm. So I am pretty lucky I would say! I just remember that I tried the boulder maybe 4 or 5 years and it seemed too reachy back then. Maybe I just wasnโt strong enough. The boulder is just so nice and pure that I wanted to try once again and see if I could have a chance.
Suprisingly I did all the moves quickly this time. The problem for me was to be fresh enough for the last move coming from the bottom.
Session after session I felt better on the intro. I sent it on my second or 3rd try on session 4.
What are your autumn plans?
Nothing sure yet! Maybe try a bit Solitary daze low, if the conditions are good. But I am thinking about going to Japan. Otherwise Ticino is always a good option! Still undecided :)
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