Vertical-Life
Chicken Deluxe reclimbed as a 9a+ by Lucien Martinez
"For me, the story started when I got it into my head to repeat this 8c+ which was one of the very last routes I hadn’t ticked at Supermanjoc. I broke two sika holds during my first go, just by pulling on them, and that’s when I and Fabrice (Landry) started thinking that it might be possible without sika. With the agreement of Éric Siguier, we then removed fifteen sika holds (perhaps 17) with a hammer (they came down very easily). There are two that we decided to keep despite everything because, unlike the others, the sika was actually reinforcing a natural hold, so breaking the sika would have meant also breaking the rock itself. For the first of the two holds, it would have made no difference to remove it. For the second, we are not 100% sure that the route would have been possible without. We hesitated a lot and finally told ourselves that we were going to play it smart and leave them on. So no, we can’t say that the route is completely natural (there are two sika holds left) but I don’t think we could have called it natural either if we had removed them too."
Jernej Kruder sends Martin Krpan (9a) sans knee pads
Jernej Kruder, who won the Boulder World Cup in 2018, has done Martin Krpan (9a) in Mišja Peč. “I would like to expose something here: I spent many tries on t…
Welcome to Vertical-Life Web
Six years after partnering with 8a.nu, we’re excited to announce the unification of the 8a.nu website and the Vertical-Life app into a single platform: Vertical…
Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)
William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…
Fabrice Landry does Chicken deluxe (9a+)
Fabrice Landry, who did his first 8c in 2020 at age 29, has done Chicken Deluxe (9a+) in Saint-Antonin. The route was put up with 17 sika holds as an 8c+ but al…
Lucien Martinez has made the second repeat, after Adam Ondra, of Chris Sharma's Three Degrees of Separation 9a+ at Céüse. The name relates to three extreme dyno…
Second 9a for Lucien Martinez
Lucien Martinez has done the FA of Descente en Terre Inconnue 9a in Sabart. Here is some of his story on Crimpoil. "The route starts with a short and endurance…
Fabrice Landry does Chicken deluxe (9a+)
Fabrice Landry, who did his first 8c in 2020 at age 29, has done Chicken Deluxe (9a+) in Saint-Antonin. The route was put up with 17 sika holds as an 8c+ but al…
Lucien Martinez has made the second repeat, after Adam Ondra, of Chris Sharma's Three Degrees of Separation 9a+ at Céüse. The name relates to three extreme dyno…
Second 9a for Lucien Martinez
Lucien Martinez has done the FA of Descente en Terre Inconnue 9a in Sabart. Here is some of his story on Crimpoil. "The route starts with a short and endurance…
Katie Lamb makes history
Katie Lamb has become the first woman to climb 8C+ by completing Box Therapy (8C) in RMNP. Daniel Woods made the FA back in 2018, and only Drew Ruana and Sean B…
Schubert sends Project Big during his 6th Live attempt
"It was dramatic to the very end." On the 8a finish of Project Big in Flatanger, Jakob Schubert explains that a horn broke and he was close to falling. The last three minutes of the video show just how much this climb means to him."This horn could have ended my career... This was the biggest mental …
Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)
William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…