Vertical-Life
Fabrice Landry does Chicken deluxe (9a+)
”Chicken deluxe is an old route freed by Eric Siguier more than 20 years ago with many sika holds. Two years ago, my friend Lucien Martinez tried it and broke some sika holds. The idea of naturalizing the route came naturally with the agreement of the team members. It took us a few sessions to dissect the new sections and re-equip some passages. Last November, Lucien succeeded in clearing the new route. As far as I'm concerned, I had to wait for the return of sunny days and milder conditions than in winter to get out of the way. We were very hesitant about the proposal to 9a+, so we took the side of caution. Even so, we are convinced that it is a very difficult 9a+. There are now enough challenging routes at the crag to interest the strongest climbers, more than 8 lines in the 9th grade, some variants and some projects.”
What is your next plan?
A little rest to start and then repeat "A la limite de la Rupture" (9a), release the last two remaining projects, "Destrucion Masiva" (9a/+?) and "Arqueur Vaillant" (9b?).
Is it fair to call you a late bloomer seeing as how you did your first 9a at age 29?
The story is that I stopped climbing for 5/6 years and then I came back quietly and it was only very recently that I enjoyed climbing difficult routes. I had a need to enjoy life other than through competitions, studies and everything else to finally come back to it a few years later but with a very different approach. Today, the main objective is to develop a high level locally by enjoying and without constraints or commitments, just the pleasure. Let's hope it motivates some strong climbers to come!
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Welcome to Vertical-Life Web
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Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)
William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…
Chicken Deluxe reclimbed as a 9a+ by Lucien Martinez
Lucien Martinez has removed all but two sika holds from Eric Siguier's unrepeated Chicken deluxe (8c+), from 2002, creating a hard 9a+, in Saint-Antonin. Previo…
Fabrice Landry does the FA of Le consommateur (9a)
Fabrice Landry has done the FA of Le consommateur (9a) in Manjo-Carn. The 32-year-old has previously done four FAs 8c to 9a in the same crag. (c) Arthur Delicqu…
Lucien Martinez has made the second repeat, after Adam Ondra, of Chris Sharma's Three Degrees of Separation 9a+ at Céüse. The name relates to three extreme dyno…
Chicken Deluxe reclimbed as a 9a+ by Lucien Martinez
Lucien Martinez has removed all but two sika holds from Eric Siguier's unrepeated Chicken deluxe (8c+), from 2002, creating a hard 9a+, in Saint-Antonin. Previo…
Fabrice Landry does the FA of Le consommateur (9a)
Fabrice Landry has done the FA of Le consommateur (9a) in Manjo-Carn. The 32-year-old has previously done four FAs 8c to 9a in the same crag. (c) Arthur Delicqu…
Lucien Martinez has made the second repeat, after Adam Ondra, of Chris Sharma's Three Degrees of Separation 9a+ at Céüse. The name relates to three extreme dyno…
Katie Lamb makes history
Katie Lamb has become the first woman to climb 8C+ by completing Box Therapy (8C) in RMNP. Daniel Woods made the FA back in 2018, and only Drew Ruana and Sean B…
Schubert sends Project Big during his 6th Live attempt
"It was dramatic to the very end." On the 8a finish of Project Big in Flatanger, Jakob Schubert explains that a horn broke and he was close to falling. The last three minutes of the video show just how much this climb means to him."This horn could have ended my career... This was the biggest mental …
Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)
William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…