
28 June 2022
Brace for the Cure 8C+ FA by Matt Fultz - updated
Matt Fultz, who previously has done four 8C+, has done the FA of Brace for the Cure (8C+) in . It starts in and then continues on small crimpers in a left loop. Video on his Insta.
"This is quite a unique problem. Each move individually isnโt too bad if you hit the holds perfectly. But the crimps are sharp, small, and precise. Often I would grab one of the holds wrong by just a little bit, then would be frozen for the next move. So satisfying to send and hit every hold perfectly for once!".
Could you say something about the process how you took it down?
The problem starts by doing the classic Jade (8B+) into a crux transition where itโs really hard to get your fingers perfectly on the precise crimps. Then you finish with a 1-move 7C+ which feels much harder when youโre a little pumped! I fell off the last hard move back in 2020 right before I moved away from Colorado. I came back in the summer of 2021 but only had one session on it before I got injured. This year, I trained in Boise through May specifically for this problem and it payed off!
"This is quite a unique problem. Each move individually isnโt too bad if you hit the holds perfectly. But the crimps are sharp, small, and precise. Often I would grab one of the holds wrong by just a little bit, then would be frozen for the next move. So satisfying to send and hit every hold perfectly for once!".
Could you say something about the process how you took it down?
The problem starts by doing the classic Jade (8B+) into a crux transition where itโs really hard to get your fingers perfectly on the precise crimps. Then you finish with a 1-move 7C+ which feels much harder when youโre a little pumped! I fell off the last hard move back in 2020 right before I moved away from Colorado. I came back in the summer of 2021 but only had one session on it before I got injured. This year, I trained in Boise through May specifically for this problem and it payed off!
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