Biographie (9a+) by Tanguy Merard, 19

Tanguy Merard has done his fourth 9a+, Biographie (9a+) in Céüse. Jean-Christophe Lafaille bolted it in 1989 and then in 1996 Arnaud Petit made it to the first 8c+ anchor. Five years later, Chris Sharma made the FA of the full 35+ meter line and later on, the first anchor was removed. (c) TLC Prod

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
After 3 years of trying it, coming back with the same motivation every season was so hard. I had ups and a lot of downs but I never gave up, every try I thought that was the good one and this during 4 summers. I tried this route for 50 or 60 days maybe, I don't know, too much to count. And then, with a lot of rage and intention, the biggest project in my life crystallised😋. I wasn't in the best shape on my first try, I struggled in the first part but on my second try I was a little bit better, I gave a big fight 🔥 and it happened!

This year in training I managed to give a lot of energy and intention, I worked on that in connection with breathing. I ventilated a lot to excite myself, I worked a lot on that and that's what got me to the chains that day. Biographie was like a mirror to me; she helped me to know myself better and understand how my mind and body work and made me grow. Thanks to all the people who supported me in this project, my friends, my coach, my sponsors, my family.

What are the next and 2023 plans?
The next project is coming 🔥: I tried Ratstaman Vibrations (9b) just after sending Biographie and I like it so much, I will try this route this summer, it is my main goal.

Fanatic Climbing has made an interview with the 19-year-old where he comments on his ascent. "What made the difference was having succeeded in getting me excited and having the rage to win at the top crux. I put that in place in my training this year, and with breathing, I managed to activate myself to be ready to give everything. I managed to reproduce exactly what I was able to do in the gym in terms of intention and excitement."