28 February 2026
Beckett Hsin, 16, does No One Mourns the Wicked (9A)
Beckett Hsin, who sent his first 8C in 2023, has repeated Nathaniel Colemanโs No One Mourns the Wicked (9A) in South Platte. The spectacular line adds an 8B sit start to Defying Gravity (8C) which the 158 cm tall and 16-year-old sent last October in just one session. (c) Bryce Bozovich
โBack in 2022 | set the myself the goal of climbing my first v12 with the hopes of doing it before my 13th birthday. I had been climbing for around 6 years, but until that point had never bouldered outside much. The idea of outdoor bouldering was something that always got me psyched, but it was new to me and I had no clue what I was capable of. I thought that goal would be a cool way to test what my limit was on rock. That same summer I ended up sending what, at the time, I called my first v14. After that summer, I started joking about how it would cool to continue bouldering my age as I got older.
Each season I got more psyched and my love for climbing grew. Subsequently the limit of what I was possible expanded as well, and I started to internalize that goal even more.
NOMTW challenged me in ways no other boulder has. After completing Defying Gravity I was relatively confident about my chances with the low. But, after session 2 l realized how much of a battle it would be be. I don't talk about if often, but I have Lyme disease. While it's generally nothing more than an inconvenience. At times, it can become an issue within my climbing. This was one of those cases. Issues with my Lyme stacked on top of several other uncontrollable factors, specifically conditions caused my sessions to be very inconsistent. Some days I'd feel good and could stick the crux move 80% of the time (in iso). Other days I'd barely generate enough to touch the hold
In the end, it all came down to patience. I knew it was possible, and I knew it was only a matter of finding the right day. But, I also had to accept the fact that I might not send, and learn to be okay with that. I feel like In the past I've always sent boulders by forcing the moves into submission, but this felt like the complete opposite. I had to submit myself to the boulder. However, last week my day finally came. On the hike in my body felt good, my mind felt clear, and the conditions were perfect. Everything was aligned and I knew I was ready.
When grading boulders I generally try to be as honest with myself as possible, basing grades off my personal experiences. I personally don't feel like I have enough experience with boulders at this difficultly to give an honest opinion on the grade. However, regardless if this thing truly is v17 or not, it does feel like a satisfying resolve to the goal that I've worked for the past several years.
I'm grateful to have had the opportunity to share this experience with so many amazing people. Thanks you to everyone who's supported me over these past few years. I'm beyond psyched to continue pushing the my limits, and I'm psyched to see what's next for me and my climbing!โ
โBack in 2022 | set the myself the goal of climbing my first v12 with the hopes of doing it before my 13th birthday. I had been climbing for around 6 years, but until that point had never bouldered outside much. The idea of outdoor bouldering was something that always got me psyched, but it was new to me and I had no clue what I was capable of. I thought that goal would be a cool way to test what my limit was on rock. That same summer I ended up sending what, at the time, I called my first v14. After that summer, I started joking about how it would cool to continue bouldering my age as I got older.
Each season I got more psyched and my love for climbing grew. Subsequently the limit of what I was possible expanded as well, and I started to internalize that goal even more.
NOMTW challenged me in ways no other boulder has. After completing Defying Gravity I was relatively confident about my chances with the low. But, after session 2 l realized how much of a battle it would be be. I don't talk about if often, but I have Lyme disease. While it's generally nothing more than an inconvenience. At times, it can become an issue within my climbing. This was one of those cases. Issues with my Lyme stacked on top of several other uncontrollable factors, specifically conditions caused my sessions to be very inconsistent. Some days I'd feel good and could stick the crux move 80% of the time (in iso). Other days I'd barely generate enough to touch the hold
In the end, it all came down to patience. I knew it was possible, and I knew it was only a matter of finding the right day. But, I also had to accept the fact that I might not send, and learn to be okay with that. I feel like In the past I've always sent boulders by forcing the moves into submission, but this felt like the complete opposite. I had to submit myself to the boulder. However, last week my day finally came. On the hike in my body felt good, my mind felt clear, and the conditions were perfect. Everything was aligned and I knew I was ready.
When grading boulders I generally try to be as honest with myself as possible, basing grades off my personal experiences. I personally don't feel like I have enough experience with boulders at this difficultly to give an honest opinion on the grade. However, regardless if this thing truly is v17 or not, it does feel like a satisfying resolve to the goal that I've worked for the past several years.
I'm grateful to have had the opportunity to share this experience with so many amazing people. Thanks you to everyone who's supported me over these past few years. I'm beyond psyched to continue pushing the my limits, and I'm psyched to see what's next for me and my climbing!โ
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