2 October 2021

Austin Purdy jumps from 7c+ to doing Moonshine 9a

Austin Purdy, who the last six months has done six 8B+', has possible set some kind of record doing Moonshine 9a in Wild Iris, with a previous 7c+ PB. Video on his Insta. "Trying this thing was my first time climbing on a rope in over 8 years, and it's my first route harder than 7c+. Psyched to say it felt far from my limit. Maybe I'll tie in again and try some harder stuff in 2029"

How much of an endurance route is the 16 meter tall Moonshine?
It is definitely more of a power endurance route than an endurance test piece. It's about 25 moves from the start to the end of the hard climbing and doesn't really have any spots to get a good rest.

So this was like the first time in 8 years you got a real pump?
Haha, I guess so ๐Ÿ˜‚. Although there are some long roof boulders I have done in this power endurance style in places like Flagstaff, Arizona that may be just as pumpy.

What about trying some 9b's, as that 9a when down so smoothly?
I would definitely like to try and send 9a+ or even 9b someday, but here in the US there are not a lot of routes at that upper end of the grade scale that inspires me, but we do have a lot of world-class bouldering. So my focus will likely stay there for a while
2 comments
Sort by:
Date
Reply
Most commented
Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
Sean Bailey FAโ€™s Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ€ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โ€ฆ
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโ€ฆ
Related
The story of 2 worlds 8C by Austin Purdy
Austin Purdy has done his first 8C, The Story of 2 worlds in Cresciano. It was set up by Dave Graham in 2010 and the name refers to the inflated grading system โ€ฆ
Dicktopia 8C by Austin Purdy
Austin Purdy, who previously has done 67 8B's and 16 8B+', has done his second 8C, Dicktopia in Camp Dick. Video on his Insta. "The picture is from a session inโ€ฆ
Paint it Black 8C by Austin Purdy
Austin Purdy has done Paint it Black (8C) in RMNP (CO). Interestingly, in the end it came down to some fingernails optimization that Austin describes below. Preโ€ฆ