
2 October 2021
Austin Purdy jumps from 7c+ to doing Moonshine 9a
Austin Purdy, who the last six months has done six 8B+', has possible set some kind of record doing Moonshine 9a in Wild Iris, with a previous 7c+ PB. Video on his Insta. "Trying this thing was my first time climbing on a rope in over 8 years, and it's my first route harder than 7c+. Psyched to say it felt far from my limit. Maybe I'll tie in again and try some harder stuff in 2029"
How much of an endurance route is the 16 meter tall Moonshine?
It is definitely more of a power endurance route than an endurance test piece. It's about 25 moves from the start to the end of the hard climbing and doesn't really have any spots to get a good rest.
So this was like the first time in 8 years you got a real pump?
Haha, I guess so ๐. Although there are some long roof boulders I have done in this power endurance style in places like Flagstaff, Arizona that may be just as pumpy.
What about trying some 9b's, as that 9a when down so smoothly?
I would definitely like to try and send 9a+ or even 9b someday, but here in the US there are not a lot of routes at that upper end of the grade scale that inspires me, but we do have a lot of world-class bouldering. So my focus will likely stay there for a while
How much of an endurance route is the 16 meter tall Moonshine?
It is definitely more of a power endurance route than an endurance test piece. It's about 25 moves from the start to the end of the hard climbing and doesn't really have any spots to get a good rest.
So this was like the first time in 8 years you got a real pump?
Haha, I guess so ๐. Although there are some long roof boulders I have done in this power endurance style in places like Flagstaff, Arizona that may be just as pumpy.
What about trying some 9b's, as that 9a when down so smoothly?
I would definitely like to try and send 9a+ or even 9b someday, but here in the US there are not a lot of routes at that upper end of the grade scale that inspires me, but we do have a lot of world-class bouldering. So my focus will likely stay there for a while
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