15 May 2024

Austin Purdy does Stil vor Talent (8C)

Austin Purdy, who two weeks ago sent two 8B+' and flashed an 8B, has done Stil vor Talent (8C) in Magic Wood.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Stil Vor Talent is an extension to the classic Never Ending Story in Magic Wood, and in my opinion, a very beautiful and logical line that tops out what is normally a drop off. Instead of going to the normal jug that The Never Ending Story (8B+) finishes on, it climbs along the rail before finishing on a powerful 8A/V11 boulder with a committing highball top out. I was excited to try it because it seemed like a good challenge to top out Never Ending story without a rope, or traversing/downclimbing. I ended up falling off of the last move of the entire line twice before finishing up Stil Vor Talent on my second to last climbing day before leaving Magic Wood. Over the past year or so I have been trying to focus more on trying lines that are at or near my limit, as in years past I have often spent more time doing climbs I knew I could complete relatively quickly. This has resulted in me not only doing more difficult climbs, but I also think has helped me level up and do these hard climbs more easily as well. For this trip specifically I mostly tried to not put too much pressure on my performance, but to instead try to enjoy the process and wait for the right moment to do climbs instead of trying to force it.
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