26 March 2015

Ashima was misinformed about the 9a+ grade

Last week Ashima Shiraishi (13) wrote on Instagram that she had done Open Your Mind Direct and calling it a 9a+. "After a hold broke off up high, local climbers said that the route became harder which changed it from 9a to 9a+." 9a+ has never before been done by a female and the last years only a dozen male reached that grade, per year, and Adam Ondra did his first when he was 15 years old. However, several experienced climbers have told us that she was misinformed as the route remains 9a due to some holds also have become bigger. Open Your Mind Direct was bolted by Dani Andrada and Ramonet bagged the FA of its 40 meters in 2008, suggesting 9a+ for it. Later a 9a first "anchor" was established after 25 meters, which is included in the topo, skipping the final 15 meters of 8b+ climbing, which often is wet. Recent repeaters, including Ashima, have climbed it to the 9a anchor. Edu Marin is currently trying to go to the second anchor which he thinks is 9a+ after the holds broke. "I think it is awesome that she is capable of doing this hard routes at her age, especially cause she does a lot of overhang routes that are very powerful. I never thought that these would be the most easy style for a girl like her, which I think it makes it even more incredible! What it’s also incredible is that she did them in such a short time!" Noteworthy is that some days ago the 155 cm tall girl did Edu Marin's Ciudad de Dios 9a/+ and she actually thinks that this route is easier than the 9a she did last week but this is just how personal grading works! On the picture it is Edu and Ashima. Ashima Shiraishi (13) has, combining routes and boulders, by far the most impressive female tick list in the world, both the last year as well as All time high.
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