Arlo Rogers completes Estado Critico (9a)

Arlo Rogers, with six 8c+’ under his belt, has done Estado critico (9a) in Siurana. The 35-meter classic gained fame as the world’s first 9a route to be onsighted, an achievement accomplished by Alex Megos in 2012. (c) Rob Knowles

Can you tell me us more about the ascent?
The route took me 9 sessions and I had 2 goes a session whilst trying some other bits onsight at the end of most days on it. When I first arrived in siurana the route was super busy! Dispite the ques being abit annoying, it was great sharing it with so many people and seeing them at the New Years party. After passing the crux on my 6th session, I fell off on the head wall a few times, and last move once before doing it just before the sun set on my last go of the day!

What about the new knee bar you mention on your Instagram?
Eder Lombar actually found the knee and mentioned it to me. It’s just after the two pockets on the head wall and gives a brief shake. For me even with this it felt harder than all the 8c+’s I have done, including a couple of which get 8c+/9a like Caban au Canada.

What is your climbing background and what are your plans for 2025?
Started climbing around 10 years ago at my local wall (Warwick). I started trad climbing outside not long after with trips from the wall and got really in to this, when I was abit older I started to get the train up to the Peak District to get out at much as I could. When i could drive at 17 i started sport climbing outside a lot more and climbed my first 8a this year in 2020. Since then whilst in school, studdying dietetics at Cardiff met I have been going on trips when I can, whilst also doing route setting and climbing coaching on the side.

This year I hope to climb Seleccio Natural (9a). I tried this last year for 2 weeks, I was sleeping in a bivvi bag in the car park and got very ill so hopefully Il finish that! I also hope to climb more in South Wales where I am studying, I am trying a couple of routes I bolted on the sea cliffs, and hope to do more onsight trad climbing in Pembroke. I also hope To climb in Flatanger this summer and try many of the classics there!