16 October 2021

Alihulk sit start extension total 9b by Domen Skofic

Domen Škofic, Lead World Cup winner overall in 2016, has done his first 9b, Alihulk sit start extension total in Rodellar and amazingly it took him just three days and he did not use kneepads. Originally, Dani Andrada put up a shorter version of it in 2007, without using a kneepad. Then in 2019, Jonathan Flor made the FA of the Extension total which already has been repeated five times. Everyone has used a kneepad, although Laura Rogora did not use a proper one with rubber. Andrada has later commented that his FA should have been 9a+ if he had used a kneepad. (c) Nace Gosnik.

"After 3 days of work I brought all the pieces together and today I sent it on my first try. I didn’t expect it’s going to happen that fast and therefore I’m a little bit sceptical about the grade. Anyway, I enjoy putting this puzzle together and makes me psyched for my future goals."

Although being #4 in Kranj, 2021 was probably the worst year on the Lead World Cup since 2012 for him. The Slovenian comments on Insta, "After a rough comp season I took 10 days off from training to clear my mind."

The 27-year-old opened his own climbing gym, The Ranch this August which might explain the rough comp season. "I have invested a lot of time to make it happen and the training was not the best for the last year and a half. But now I’m getting free to climb again outdoors :)"

How come you did not use kneepads?
I just don’t know how to use them to my advantage and they make me feel immobile. I try to make as many routes as possible without them. I’m not against kneepads and I’m trying to learn this technique because I know that someday I might find a route that won’t be possible to climb without.
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