Alexey Rubtsov Olympic preperation interview
How do you train to prepare for the Olympics?
At the moment, my training program is completely different from what I have done before. After a shoulder injury, I constantly reduce the volume of strength exercises, and since May 2020, I practically do not do them at all. Now my program is aimed at long-term improvement (it might seem a little silly at my 32 years old :) I try to make my body healthier, improve flexibility and agility. I can feel my climbing style changing, my position on the wall and I like it. For now, I will continue to work in this direction. Even if I have now become weaker in strength indicators (for example, 2 years ago I could pull up on 1 arm 15 times, now 2-3), but still in the fall I was able to win two Russian Championships and the European Championship.
In general, as usual, I am looking for new training solutions to climb better. I climb together with Nikolai Yarilovets and Sergei Luzhetskii 3-5 times a week for 3-4 hours. I have everyday mobility and stretching training on the floor for 1-1,5 hour. I also do martial arts 2-3 times a week. I cannot say how many percent of my schedule will be bouldering, how much lead, how much speed, since I don't know it myself :) and I see no reason to control it. Nevertheless, I admit that maybe I will return some exercises to the strength of the fingers on the fingerboard if I start to feel very weak :)
In which comps do you plan to participate as preparation and what is your goal for the Olympics?
4 WC's in bouldering, 1 in lead and maybe no in Speed :) Tokyo is just competition and in competition, everything can happen. I hope to show good climbing:) About speed, I don’t like this discipline and I don’t have a big training plan for it. I didn't train it last year, so I have only comp time 7.3 in 2020 as PB.
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