8 May 2023

Alex Ventajas onsights Panonoramix (8b+)

Alex Ventajas, who two months ago did his first 9a+, has onsighted Panonoramix (8b+) in St Léger. The 23-year-old has previously done six 8b's onsight and in the 8a ranking game he is #6.

Can you tell us more about the great onsight?
This was my very first 8b+ onsight. I felt close on other occasions, and as training, I often begin to climb a new route with the mindset to try to onsight it. This time I actually wasn’t thinking about that, because my idea was to try the moves of the 8c that shares the first chain with this 8b+. I think the hardest part of the route is the first five quickdraws, where there is a boulder which would be around 7c ish. After that, there is a power-endurance section till the first chain, where the 8b+ ends. Probably the fact that the crux was at the beginning helped me because I could look better at the holds from the ground, imagining how to do those moves. Also, when I managed to do the first hard section, I thought that it could be possible that the heaviest part was done, so I felt even more strong and motivated to do my best! In the end, I reached the 8b+ chain and I kept climbing through the L2, falling as I was getting out of the last crux of the 8c, just two moves before the last easy climbing section to the top!
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