Alex Ventajas onsights Panonoramix (8b+)
Can you tell us more about the great onsight?
This was my very first 8b+ onsight. I felt close on other occasions, and as training, I often begin to climb a new route with the mindset to try to onsight it. This time I actually wasn’t thinking about that, because my idea was to try the moves of the 8c that shares the first chain with this 8b+. I think the hardest part of the route is the first five quickdraws, where there is a boulder which would be around 7c ish. After that, there is a power-endurance section till the first chain, where the 8b+ ends. Probably the fact that the crux was at the beginning helped me because I could look better at the holds from the ground, imagining how to do those moves. Also, when I managed to do the first hard section, I thought that it could be possible that the heaviest part was done, so I felt even more strong and motivated to do my best! In the end, I reached the 8b+ chain and I kept climbing through the L2, falling as I was getting out of the last crux of the 8c, just two moves before the last easy climbing section to the top!
Jernej Kruder sends Martin Krpan (9a) sans knee pads
Jernej Kruder, who won the Boulder World Cup in 2018, has done Martin Krpan (9a) in Mišja Peč. “I would like to expose something here: I spent many tries on t…
Welcome to Vertical-Life Web
Six years after partnering with 8a.nu, we’re excited to announce the unification of the 8a.nu website and the Vertical-Life app into a single platform: Vertical…
Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)
William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…
Musson brothers, 12 and 17, send 8c and 8c+
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Two 9a’s by Jules Marchaland
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Solveig Korherr redpoints 8c+ and 8c in St Léger
Solveig Korherr, who previously has done 28 routes 8c and beyond, has added to her tally while in St Léger. (c) John Thornton Les petits chefs du néant (8c): …
Musson brothers, 12 and 17, send 8c and 8c+
Nathan Musson (12) and Maël Musson (17) have, respectively, done La théorie des cordes (8c) in St Léger and La proue debridée (8c+) in Roche de rame. Their m…
Two 9a’s by Jules Marchaland
Jules Marchaland has done Le Cadafist (9a) in St Léger and Comité d'accueil (9a) in Séranon. In total, the 22-year-old has now done eleven routes 9a and beyond…
Solveig Korherr redpoints 8c+ and 8c in St Léger
Solveig Korherr, who previously has done 28 routes 8c and beyond, has added to her tally while in St Léger. (c) John Thornton Les petits chefs du néant (8c): …
Katie Lamb makes history
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Schubert sends Project Big during his 6th Live attempt
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Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)
William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…