Alex Megos' talks kneebars, onsighting and comps

Alex Megos, runner-up in the Innsbruck Lead World Cup, (c) Jan Virt, has been one of the best climbers in the world for almost 15 years, both outdoors and on the competition scene. In 2009 and 2010, he won ten out of eleven Euro Youth Cups. In 2013, he became the first person to onsight a 9a with, Estato Critico. In 2012, he returned to the competition scene after five years and won the silver in the Euro Bouldering Championship and then, participating in his first Lead WC, he won. In the Tokyo Olympics, he was #9 and his last podium was in Briancon last year. When it comes to 9a routes and harder, he has done around 100 including two 9b+ FAs.

What is your take on knee pads and grading?
I have four different kneepads and I try to adapt to the progression of the sport although I am still not the biggest fan. I think it is important to respect the FA and I try to repeat routes in the same style. If it gets easier with a knee pad you have to be honest and possibly give it a new grade. Two grades are of course an option but it is difficult to draw the line. On a route like First Round First Minute (9b), you can use so many knee bars, if you are skilled, so there are not so many moves remaining to the original [ascent]. Margalef is a specific case with all the pockets, and different body types and sizes of fingers can create also new knee bar options and moves, that others can not do even with knee pads.

Can it be that all the knee baring creates new strength and skills that even if you just use say jeans, you can repeat an old route in easier fashion also without knee pads?
Yes of course! Domen [Skofic] repeated a 9b in the Ali Baba cave not using the knee pads but he probably took advantage of some new knee bars anyway. It is a tricky question and I try to adapt.

Why do you think there is little progress with onsighting for the new young generation?
Possibly due to all videos. It is easy to start scrolling and then you lose the onsight possibility. I also think that the media and the sponsors do not focus on onsight meaning that many just start projecting a 9a instead of playing the onsight game. Furthermore, if you are not tall enough it is almost impossible to onsight hard. This might create frustration for the kids.

What about your Olympic preparation and training?
I have not focused as much as I should on my training. During this summer I will only be focusing on indoor training but last winter and this spring I was more into the outdoors. I will see what happens with the 2024 selection. I am in the Olympic program and get financial support every month. I am not so psyched travelling around with only this objective. I like training and doing competition-style boulders and simulations but it is hard during the summer. I sweat a lot during the summer and looking at a competition like this, [Brixen] my fingertips are all wet.