15 February 2023

Jules Marchaland climbs First Ley, making it his First 9a+!

Jules Marchaland has repeated Chris Sharmaโ€™s First Ley (9a+) in Margalef, which is a slightly easier variation to the test-piece First Round First Minute (9b). (c) Esteban Lahoz

โ€I came to Margalef and my main goal was to do this route and I was able to do this masterpiece in six sessions. I tried it the first three days but after a long rainy day the route was completely wetโ€ฆ I took the opportunity to go do other easier routes and when it dried up I went back and I had crazy feelings! I took a rest day and I started to put very good tries (in). I fell at the last movement once but then on the following session I did it!โ€

What's next?
For Margalef, just to do some 8c or 8c+ but my trip finishes in just four daysโ€ฆ and after, training for Supercrackinette (9a+) and for lead comps!

Last year, the 21-year-old took silver at the only Euro Cup he did. After that comp he did three World Cups, always placing in the top 20, in addition to sending his first three 9aโ€™s.
0 comments
Most commented
Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
Sean Bailey FAโ€™s Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ€ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โ€ฆ
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโ€ฆ
Related
Sungsu Lee does First Ley (9a+)
Sungsu Lee, who has climbed five 8C boulders since stepping away from IFSC competitions last year, has sent First Ley (9a+) in Margalef. Can you tell us more aโ€ฆ
Jules Marchaland does Just two fix (9a)
Jules Marchaland, who did First Ley (9a+) in February, has repeated Pierre Le Cerf's Just two fix (9a) in Gorges du Loup. Last year, the 21-year-old took silveโ€ฆ
Jules Marchaland adopts a fast climbing style and makes quick work of, Super Crackinette (9a+)
Jules Marchaland, who has redpointed a 9a+ and another 9a, in the last six weeks, has done Supercrackinette (9a+) in St Lรฉger. (c) Thรฉo Ravanello Can you tell โ€ฆ