Alex Megos FA’s Tuareg Blanco (9b/+)

Alex Megos, who five days ago did the FA of Iker Pou’s On Egin (8c+) after only three tries, has made the FA of Tuareg Blanco (9b/+) in Margalef, bolted by Adrien Boulon. (c) Rainer Eder

The 31-year-old double Olympian has completed ten routes graded 9b or 9b+ and over 100 graded 9a or harder, including achieving the world’s first 9a onsight in 2012.

Can you tell us more about the trip and Tuareg Blanco?
Good start to the year. The trip paid off now 😅 I started working the route when we came to Margalef after Christmas and have pretty much been focusing only on that route. I didn't do anything else really and for about 10 days only worked the moves and sections.

Unfortunately that route required me to rest quite a bit, because it peeled off my skin so quickly that I couldn't hold on anymore. In the end I think I was giving it tries for 5 days until it happened today on the second try of the day. With a few beta changes along the way.

The challenge were small and sharp holds, no rest and no good holds for 20 moves and the crux at the end of the 20 moves. Tricky with the weather too. It's in full sun for the whole day to it was often too warm.

What is coming up next and what about World Cups in 2025?
Some training camps with the German team and some workshops at our gym 😅😂. I'll only do the European ones, if anything. I'll not fly to China or Japan or anywhere else.