Updated: Alex Megos comments doing Change (9b+) in 5 sessions
The German has previously done the FAs of Perfecto Mundo (9b+) and Bibliographie (9b+), besides being the first to onsight 9a, Estado Critico in 2012.
Great to see that all the hard Olympic training paid off. How was the process and how long time took the ascent?
I was definitely in good shape after the training for the Olympics. I could feel that. Unfortunately I couldn't show it at the comp...
The process was simple. We arrived to Norway on Thursday and on the afternoon I did Purgatory (9a) in Hell. On Friday and Saturday I started working on Change. Sunday we went bouldering and I flashed an 8A and did an 8A+. Monday and Tuesday I worked on Change again. Wednesday was rest day and Thursday was sending day.
The ascent took something between 45min and one hour and I was super nervous all the way up. I hadn't done either of the parts separately, so I wasn't super confident in all sections yet. I think I'll have a look at some more routes in the cave. A lot has changed since I was here 9 years ago.
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