
24 March 2024
Alex Khazanov climbs From Dirt Grows The Flowers (8C)
Alex Khazanov, who won a Boulder WC in 2018, has sent From Dirt Grows The Flowers (8C) in Chironico. โA boulder that represents a level up in my personal climbing. The hardest part of the boulder is a legendary mantle, that a few years ago would seem impossible to me. Trying "Alphane" over and over became a mental challenge. Trying and climbing "From dirt" was a good reminder of how amazing and diverse our sport is. I could relax my mind and just climb a good personal challenge.โ
Can you tell us more about the ascent and your progress on Alphane?
The last 3 trips to Switzerland the only boulder I have tried was Alphane. The trips were short, about 5 climbing days each, so I didn't have time for anything else. Alphane consumed my mind and I couldn't think about any other climb.
This trip the weather, my skin and mind needed a break. I always thought I would have zero chances on From Dirtโฆas mantles and mobility are not my strongest style of climbing. But it was in the shade and a short drive from Alphane. Doing it represents a growth in my personal climbing, and I am very happy about doing it rather quickly. I do feel like a better climber than I was.
As for Alphane, the weather this trip was really strange. Snowing one day and warm 18 degrees the next. So I didn't have many good tries from the start. I do feel the flow on the boulder and confident I can send, I hope to come back in two weeks.
This boulder is very hard. I have spent about 20 sessions on it already and saw some of the best climbers in the world try it. Definitely feels like a 9A.
What are your current competition plans?
This year is last one of my competition career. I will not do any World Cups and compete only in the Olympic qualifiers. I have sacrificed a lot for the World Cups and I am ready to move on. The style of climbing in competition has changed a lot, and although I feel the best I ever have in my style, I feel like a cannot show it in World Cups anymore. It's okay, and it's the progression of the competitions. The beauty of our sport is that I can still show it on rocks, and I very much plan to do so in the upcoming years. I also coach Ayala Kerem, so now that I have stopped competing I can dedicate myself more for her training.
Can you tell us more about the ascent and your progress on Alphane?
The last 3 trips to Switzerland the only boulder I have tried was Alphane. The trips were short, about 5 climbing days each, so I didn't have time for anything else. Alphane consumed my mind and I couldn't think about any other climb.
This trip the weather, my skin and mind needed a break. I always thought I would have zero chances on From Dirtโฆas mantles and mobility are not my strongest style of climbing. But it was in the shade and a short drive from Alphane. Doing it represents a growth in my personal climbing, and I am very happy about doing it rather quickly. I do feel like a better climber than I was.
As for Alphane, the weather this trip was really strange. Snowing one day and warm 18 degrees the next. So I didn't have many good tries from the start. I do feel the flow on the boulder and confident I can send, I hope to come back in two weeks.
This boulder is very hard. I have spent about 20 sessions on it already and saw some of the best climbers in the world try it. Definitely feels like a 9A.
What are your current competition plans?
This year is last one of my competition career. I will not do any World Cups and compete only in the Olympic qualifiers. I have sacrificed a lot for the World Cups and I am ready to move on. The style of climbing in competition has changed a lot, and although I feel the best I ever have in my style, I feel like a cannot show it in World Cups anymore. It's okay, and it's the progression of the competitions. The beauty of our sport is that I can still show it on rocks, and I very much plan to do so in the upcoming years. I also coach Ayala Kerem, so now that I have stopped competing I can dedicate myself more for her training.
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23 January 2023
From dirt grows the flower 8C by Florian Wientjes
Florian Wientjes, who last week did Dreamtime 8B+/C, reports on Insta that he has done From Dirt Grows The Flowers (8C) in Chironico. (c) XaverQuintus.net
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