NEWS

Jesse Grupper IFSC conversation

EDITORIAL

25 July 2022

Jesse Grupper IFSC conversation

IFSC has published a conversation with Jesse Grupper, who won in Briancon, and the personal story of the Mechanical Engineering graduate is just as amazing as his last results. The runner-up in the overall World Cup 2022, works part-time at a Harvard University Bio Design Laboratory helping to design exoskeletons for stroke victims as well as assisting in writing a paper from a recent study he was part of. As a matter of a fact, helping others have always been a big part of his life.

- In high school I joined this organisation called ‘Peak Potential’ which works with people, mainly children, with physical disabilities and teaches them how to climb. I feel fulfilled in climbing, but this was a chance to work with others and help them improve.

"Following a study period in Cape Town and seeing firsthand the inequity and challenges South Africa faced, Jesse was inspired to help co-found the Diversity, Equity and Inclusion Committee for his home organisation. Jesse has a chronic condition called Ulcerative Colitis which is an Inflammatory Bowel Disease. It has affected him in the past as he’s been weaker at competitions and avoided eating to avoid any awkward moments during competition."

- It’s a chronic thing that I need regular medication for. For example, I have to fly back to the US in between this and the next event to get an infusion.

He comes from a musical family both his parents play the guitar and his sister plays ukulele and banjolele. Jesse uses yoga and music as stress relievers which helps out with his chronic condition.

- I like the twang of a banjo and you can’t really make a song sound too sad on a banjo. As far as music goes it’s a happy instrument to play.

When it comes to rock climbing (not included in the conversation), he has done Jaws II (9a+) and Hades 9a but most impressive is a flash of Livin' Astro 8c+. His hardest boulder is Book Club (8B+). website


Lynn Van der Meer does two 8c's in Frankenjura

25 July 2022

Lynn Van der Meer does two 8c's in Frankenjura

Lynn Van der Meer, who last year won the Euro Cup in Laval, has done two 8c's in Frankenjura, Roof Warrior (8c) and Father and Son (8c), "Sooo happy I climbed this line! The route was completely dry and mega beautiful to climb! A really flowy route which fits my style perfectly :) Pretty happy I could send it the fourth time I went in the route." (c) Roman van der Werf.

"Last 2 weeks, I went to Frankenjura two times for 5 days (4 climbing days) with a few days at home in between. On the first trip, I took it slow because I injured my finger back in April. Due to my finger injury, I couldn’t join the international competitions. So I decided to go outside. On the first trip, my finger was feeling good so on the last day, I decided to check out the moves of Father and Son. I went in the route twice that day and could do all the moves and linked some parts of the route together. After this, we went back home and I trained for two days. Last Monday we were back in the Frankenjura. I put the quickdraws back in, repeated the moves of Father and Son, and climbed it in the next go :)

The day after I climbed Father and Son, we went to Roof Warrior, a route I wanted to try for a long time. This time I felt ready to try it. I had the same approach as in Father and Son. First, check out the moves, second time linked parts of the route together. Then I took a rest day and came back the day after. There was one part at the end of the roof that still felt unsure. So when I went up to repeat the moves I searched for other beta and found a kneebar that worked quite well for me. I could send it in my third go that day. Super excited I could send both routes quite fast because now my focus is back to training for the European championships and after that to school. So probably no outdoor climbing for a while."


Edu Marin tops out Eternal Flame 7c+ MP at 6 251m after 28 days

25 July 2022

Edu Marin tops out Eternal Flame 7c+ MP at 6 251m after 28 days

Eduard Marin has done the first repeat of the Huber brother's Eternal Flame from 2009, which is a 650m 7c+ to the top of Nameless Tower (Trango Tower) at 6 251m in Pakistan. Already in 1989, a team including Kurt Albert and Wolfgang Güllich made it to the top but not free. The Spaniard, who won the Chamonix World Cup in 2006, did it in a single push and was assisted by his brother Alex and their 70-year-old father Francisco. Edu spent 28 days on the wall, out of which 13 alone sleeping at The Snow Ledge at 5 700, waiting out bad weather, most of them without leaving the tent. Edu made it to the top also in 2021 without freeing two pitches due to bad weather. More info on his Insta.

In 2019, the 37-year-old made the FA of the world's hardest multi-pitch, Valhalla 9a+ in Getu in China. The 17 pitches overhang 300+ meters and he projected it for some 170 days including 50 just bolting. In total, he has redpointed some 20 routes 9a or 9a+ and onsighted some 15 routes 8b+ or 8c. In other words, he has one of the most impressive multi-discipline track records in the world.


Nuthin but Sunshine 8B by Allison Vest

24 July 2022

Nuthin but Sunshine 8B by Allison Vest

Allison Vest has done Nuthin but sunshine (8B) in RMNP (CO) after trying it for some four sessions. In the 8a ranking game, she is runner-up after Katie Lamb.

I’ve always wanted to try this boulder since I saw the video of Shauna Coxsey doing it. After a very successful first session on it, I thought it would go down quickly but the very first move proved to be very hard for me. Regardless, was pretty stoked to put it down!”


Kwon Gaeun (8) sends Ixeia 8b+

24 July 2022

Kwon Gaeun (8) sends Ixeia 8b+

Kwon Gaeun has set a new standard for youngsters by doing Ixeia (8b+) in Rodellar. Last week, she belayed her father, using an OHM, who also climbed it. In total the 134 cm tall South Korean climber needed eight sessions for the send which was done in 36 degree (celsius) weather .

It was my first time to come to Spain for a climbing trip with my dad and mom. I was so happy that I could make my project without difficulty on my first trip. The mountains and valleys of Rodellar are so beautiful that I was happy to have a good time every day. Especially, playing in the water every day and, I will miss the ice cream I bought when I walked back to the accommodation after climbing🥰🥰.

This spring she did her first 8b and her father commented. “She trains in my gym four days a week, about five hours a day. Three hours of endurance training (at her spray wall), one-hour bouldering and she does campus board training and cool-down stretching for an hour. She trains in the indoor gym like this on weekdays and goes rock climbing or on outdoor lead walls on weekend.”

How did you prepare for this trip and what is the next plan? We didn't prepare anything in particular. We trained in my gym as usual and have been climbing on the rocks in Korea. We will be onsight climbing for the remaining three days and plan to visit Sharma gym in Barcelona for two days before departure.


World Cup Rankings after four events

EDITORIAL

23 July 2022

World Cup Rankings after four events

1. Tasei Homma JPN 2990 - Janja Garnbret SLO 4 000
2. Jesse Grupper USA 2 522 - Chaehyun Seo KOR 2 795
3. Colin Duffy 2 390 USA - Brooke Raboutou USA 2 560
4. Yannick Flohe GER 2 200 - Laura Rogora ITA 2 520
5. Luca Potocar SLO 1925 - Natalia Grossman USA 2 370
6. Sean Bailey USA 1 525 - Natsuki Tanii JPN 2050

Team ranking
1. USA 11 882
2. Japan 11 215
3. Slovenia 9 984
4. France 6 214
5. Italy 5 493


Until 2018, the IFSC Lead World Cup has been dominated by Europe and Japan with the USA normally around #8. The amazing progress by Team USA started when they began focusing on the Olympics and established a national centre in Salt Lake City run by Josh Larson. Noteworthy is also that all the four first WCs have been run in Europe and that two of the three remaining also will take place in Europe. (c) Lena Drapella/IFSC


Grupper and Garnbret winners in Briancon

23 July 2022

Grupper and Garnbret winners in Briancon

Jesse Grupper got his first World Cup victory in after having won each round in Briancon. Previously in 2022, the American has been #3, #2, #35 (stepped outside the wall), #4 (in the World Games) and he is #2 in the overall ranking. This is of course a big surprise but on the other hand, he actually finished the 2019 season being #7 and #5. IFSC Insta interview and her is what he said in the live-streaming.

I’m still pretty much in shock and super psyched! I feel like that was probably one of the worst climbed routes of my life in some ways, but also I was just so psyched to keep fighting through each move and it felt so good to pull it off. It was very intense and I was very nervous about this move, but I was just like ‘you just have to get this next hold and it will get better, you just have to go one more move’. I think just having that mentality paid off in the end.

Runner-up was Taisei Homma from Japan, who leads the WC after having been #9, #1 and #2 in the first three events in 2022. Alex Megos from Germany got the bronze on countback against both Tasei and Yannick Flohé. Complete results
(c) Lena Drapella/IFSC

Janja Garnbret won her seventh consecutive Lead World Cup and in total, she has now won 24 WCs and WCHs. Out of the 42 such events the Slovenian has participated in, she has 37 times (88 %) made the podium. “I was really excited, at observation the route looked super cool and I really enjoyed climbing. Some sequences seemed tricky at observation, but then it was all okay – climbable and super nice.”

Runner-up was Chaehyun Seo from Korea just one hold after Janja and then Natalia Grossman got the bronze ahead of Brooke Raboutou, on countback. Complete results


F*ck the System 8C+ by Dave Graham

23 July 2022

F*ck the System 8C+ by Dave Graham

David Graham reports on Insta has done the first repeat of Shawn Raboutou’s F*ck the System 8C+ in Fionnay, which is a direct start to Foundations Edge (8C) established by Graham in 2013. The 40-year-old says that the direct start has always been on his mind and that this season he completed it after five intense weeks.

Graham, who has been one of the world’s leading rock climber since 1999, has been peaking over the last seven months having done five 8C's and one 8C+. Three months ago, we asked him, "How are you managing to still progress after 20+ years as a pro climber?"

I feel stronger honestly! 😅😅😅, 🤔🤔🤔. Not sure why?? Maybe smarter??? Healthier lifestyle. Ah just eating better, no partying, lots of good rest!! Better attitude about climbing, more patient and also less concerned with conditions. Always finding new solutions, not getting angry. In the past, I would get much more frustrated when I would fail or not do well. These days I think I'm so used to failing that I'm surprised when I succeed. I do boulders that are really my antistyle too. So I assume they should be hard but I think it really helped my mental game, to push longer and harder. Never get pissed, it is not wise!!! I am feeling strong!! But four months of trying hard has been tough, I took the last two weeks kind of easy as the weather was finally bad.😅🤣


22 July 2022

Grupper and Natsuki ahead before the finals

The Briancon Lead World Cup is on its way for the 12th consecutive year. Jesse Grupper and Chaehyun Seo won the qualification. In the semi, Grupper topped together with Luca Potocar. Among the females, Natsuki Tanii got highest win Janja Garnbret as the runner-up. Male results and Female results

Finals Saturday 8 pm


European Human Being 8A+ by Alex Johnson

22 July 2022

European Human Being 8A+ by Alex Johnson

Alex Johnson has done European Human Being (8A+) RMNP (CO). "This went super quick for me this trip! It felt really good, I might feel the fittest on rock I've ever felt. I’ve tried this boulder in the past years ago, in 2009, and was super close but never topped. It was always on my life list to return to finish." (c) Allison Vest

The 32-year-old did her first Youth World Championship in 2003 and then in her World Cup debut in 2008 in Vail, she won. In 2019, after a three-year competition break, she did most of the World Cups trying to qualify for the Olympics and she was three times Top-13 in Bouldering. Alex did her first 8A+ at age 18 and actually, the last year has been her best ever for the 175 cm with five boulders 8A+ and harder.