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Iker Pou repeats 9a  Facebook
 

www.kairn.com reports that Iker Pou has repeated Begi Puntuan, 9a which Patxi usobiaga put up three weeks ago. Ikers says the route is 'remarkable' and 'soft for the grade'.

 
 
More pics to the 8a yearbook  Facebook
 

We are about to finalize the 8a yearbook of 2006 (which will be free of charge= 0 Euro). We have received pics from more than 30 photographers but we need more pics especially of american climbers and boulder pics in general (Fontainbleu, Hueco ...).
Preliminary Climbers of 2006.
Juniors of 2006.

 
 
Rock Climbing Atlas  Facebook
 

Two books that gives detailed info of climbing in Jordan, Egypt, Croatia and Romania etc.

 
 
Kalymnos Roc Trip Video  Facebook
 

Petzl has produced a nice video from the Roc trip in October 2006. You can buy the guidebook to Kalymnos, perhaps the best climbing destination in the world, in our webshop.

 
 
Winners of 8a Peak Performance T-shirt  Facebook
 

Thomas Hjerrild, Ulf Lennertz, Fanny Labory, Dirk Bosmans, Jarmo Annunen, Ignacio Sandoval and Joey Swensson plus three from Sweden. Send mail to choose size! Five new 8a peak performance T-shirts will be drawn January 30 - You have to sign up again.

 
 
Hari Berger killed by ice collapse  Facebook
 

UK climbing reports: "Austrian climber Hari Berger was killed Wednesday when 150 tons of ice collapsed on him in an ice cave near Hintersee Flachachau in Austria.

Berger was a champion competition ice climber, winning the world championship three times and had just repeated Markus Bendler's Law and Order M13, Diebsfen sterreich, earlier in the week. He was also an exceptional all-round climber with many hard mutli-pitch ascents as well as hard ice. A recent trip took him to Madagascar where with Florian Scheimpflug, Ondra Benes, Tom Sobotka he established the 2,400-foot Short Cut (Fr 7c+))"

 
 
Graham blogs - Old school grading  Facebook
 

Graham states that there is an inflation going and compared to "old school grading". In fact, without Dave, we probably would run into hyperinflation. We appreciate that he almost has taken the role as the boy screaming - Why is the king naked", as in the fairy tale: The Emporer's new clothes. The grading system is based on "old school grades" and new grades have to be equally hard.

 
 
World Cups etc in 2007  Facebook
 

UIAA Climbing are organizing more comps than ever in 2007. The 2007 season starts with the Ice WC 19-28 january followed by the European Championship in bouldering in Birmingham. It is a substitute for the cancelled championship in Moscow in 2006. The world championship is taking place in Marabella, Spain, 18 - 23 september and the Youth Championship is hold in Ecuador.Comments to the Lead WC 2006

 
 
8c+ by Mike Doyle  Facebook
 

Mike Doyle has put up a new 8c+ at Red River Gorge, Lucifer. -"6 weeks of work...", says Mike.

 
 
Relay interview Joey Kinder vs Paul Robinson  Facebook
 

Earlier in 2006, we started a relay interview among celebrities. First out was Martina Cufar, followed by Natalija Gros, David Graham and Joey Kinder who now presents an interview with Paul Robinson one of the most productive american youngsters being #7 a the boulder world ranking.

 
 
Climbers of 2006  Facebook
 

8a has appointed Climbers of the year since 2001.Here is our preliminary list of 2006. Please send pictures to our yearbook which will try to portrait as many as possible. Juniors of 2006

 
 
8b+ by Martina Cufar  Facebook
 

Martina Cufar has done Bitka S Stalaktiti, 8b+ in Misja Pec. The route is a 55 m long party on stalaktites. Full story on www.martinacufar.com Martina is #2 in the world ranking.

 
 
Preorder 8a yearbook 2006  Facebook
 

8a will produce the first ever yearbook in sport climbing and bouldering. The book will be free of charge, as companies like Mammut, Petzl, Peak, Millet, Prana, BEAL, La Sportiva, Top-30, Rock Pilars, Ocun and a private american donor have contributed to the yearbook. You only have to pay for postage. You, your club, or a climbing wall can pre-order 10 - 160 = 0.88 Euro per book, through our webshop.

 
 
500 000 ascents in 8a database  Facebook
 

Today, ascent #500 000 has been registrated in the 8a database. What started as a local hobby project in september 2000 has developed... If we westimate that it takes 60 seconds to put in one ascent, it would take a full time employee, five years to put in 500 000 ascents. The number of members are 14 500.

 
 
Spiderman is doing it again  Facebook
 

Alain Robert got caught by the police after having climbed a 23-storey skyscraper in Mexico.

 
 
Crimping is safe...  Facebook
 

A scientific study, published in the Journal of Anatomy has determined that there is no increased risk of developing osteoarthritis from climbing. However, there is an increase in the hands’ cross-sectional bone area and width. This study is good news for climbers concerned with the long-term impacts from our sport.

 
 
Updates of country specific pages  Facebook
 

In the country specific pages, all the latest activity is now updated in the very right column: New Members, New Forum, New Pics etc. We still need more country specific editors!

 
 
Chris Sharma & Edu Marin do Rambla, 9a+  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge Picturewww.stonemonkey.dk: Chris Sharma got the third ascent of the 40 meters and 17 quickdraws long - La Rambla original, 9a+ in Siurana. The FA was done by Ramonet in 2003. Video of Ramonet. This superb route has had a lot of traffic for many years seeing many of the top climbers projecting it. This summer Sharma did his Mallorcan DWS project that 8a.nu has speculated to be 9b (given the amount of attempts), see comment. Click to enlarge the picture (pic. by Evrard Wendenbaum).

Edu Marin got the second ascent two days ago. Two years ago he told us that was close to do it... he stripped and put on the 8a T-shirt directly ;-) In 2006, Edu has won the WC in Chamonix and done two other 9a's in Siurana. Two years ago he onsighted a 900 m trad, 8a+ in Norway and three years ago he won the Youth Worlds. Old interview with Edu & Ramonet

Funny La Rambla blog by David Graham

 
 
Picture contributors to yearbook  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMore than 35 photographers have sent us pictures. We want more, especially now when we can enlarge them. The yearbook will also feature the best crags. Further instructions what we are looking for.

Enlargeable by Edu Marin doing A muerte, 9a in Siurana. Picture ny Israel Marcia - Desnivel.

 
 
True blog by Misty Murphy  Facebook
 

Misty Murphy spits it out in the blog I hate 8a.....I like 8a.....I hate 8a....."If you think it is soft, put the lower grade in! I am insulted when I read ascents from the Wailing Wall, soft soft soft."

 
 
MacColl & Harrington in America  Facebook
 

Sean McColl and Emily Harrington are the new North American crowns. Complete results including juniors
Interview Sean, who earlier this year got his fourth and fifth Youth World Championship victory.

 
 
8a members win 5 out of 6 in Youth Cup  Facebook
 

In the last European Youth Cup, 8a members took 5 victories out of the 6 categories. The most superior winners are Katharina Saurwein and Johanna Ernst from Austria who have won all five events and the World Championship. Complete results

J1. MAGNUS MIDTBÖ Norway - KATHARINA SAURWEIN Austria
A1. Martin Stranik Czech R - Charlotte Durif France
B1. Eric Lopez Spain - JOHANNA ERNST Austria

Overall Austria dominated the scene with five victories and in the yougest female category there were 4 Austrians in Top-7. David Lama is also from Austria!
Same overall winner as above, besides:
A. JAKOB SCHUBERT Austria - CHRISTINA SCHMID Switzerland
B. MARIO LECHNER Austria
Juniors of 2006 Please comment and send pictures for the 8a yearbook 2006.

 
 
Graham gives the relay to Joey Kinder  Facebook
 

The 8a relay interview started with Martina Cufar interviewing Natalija Gros who gave it to Dave Graham, who after 12 months gave it to Joey Kinder. Dave: I am very very weak at the relay interviews. I have a level of like 4+...

 
 
8a Yearbook 2006 - Free = 0 Euro  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureGreat news! The 8a yearbook 2006, 68 printed pages featuring Lifestyle - Training - Rankings, will be free of charge. 50 % of the printing costs have already been secured by Mammut, Prana, Millet, Top 30, Peak and a private American donor! In order to receive 1 - 100 (Gyms) free copies you only have to pay for the postage.

Eleven photographers have already contributed to this exciting project by sending amazing pics, free of charge. Check our preliminary climbers of the year (give comments for the ones you are missing) and please send more pics to poa@8a.nu.

 
 
Lama & Vidmar win in Kranj  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDavid Lama (16) and Maja Vidmar won the last World Cup in Kranj. Four Slovenian girls among the Top-8. old interview with Maja Vidmar
Complete results Comments and the results to the World Cup 2006 which Angela Eiter and Patxi Usobiaga won - Pic by Urban Golub.

 
 
Final WC in Kranj: Usobiaga & Eiter  Facebook
 

The last World Cup in 2006 is taking place in Kranj, Slovenia. Live updated results
Patxi Usobiaga secured the title as his opponents Mrazek and Crespi did not make it to the finals today. Angela Eiter has already secured her victory.

 
 
Lama and Eiter win WC in Penne  Facebook
 

In the ninth stage, David Lama (16) and Angela Eiter won ahead of Patxi Usobiaga and Caroline Ciavaldini.
Overall Usobiaga leads on 571 points ahead of Flavio Crespi and Tomas Mrazek, both on 533. Lama is in fifth position.

Among the women, Angela Eiter has already secured the title and Sandrine Levet and Ciavadini is econd and third. The last WC in 2006 will take place the following weekend in Kranj - Slovenia.

 
 
2 x Zangerl in SA  Facebook
 

It seems the Zangerls, Bernd and Babsi (not a couple, nor siblings) have had a great time in the Rocklands. For Bernd, this was supposed to be a recovery trip of some sort, but I don't know...8B/+, 8B/+, 8B, 8B, 8B... read the full story and check out the great pictures on Memento (athletes/bernd/stories).

 
 
First Ascent by Peter Mortimer  Facebook
 

Here is our review of First Ascent, the latest movie from Peter Mortimer and Sender Films. Check it!

 
 
Venezuelan wins Speed WC  Facebook
 

Normally, we don't report the results from the Speed WC as it always is a local affair between Russia and Ukraine with few competitors. It seems like Speed is getting more popular with a record of 8 events and more competitors in 2006. At their home ground in Moscow, Manuel Escobar took a sensational win. Among the Top-10 women, it is all the same: 8 Russians and 2 Ukrainians.

 
 
Christmas gifts in the webshop  Facebook
 

E11 DVD, calenders, topos crashpads, and more. All prices are including shipping.

 
 
Video of the World Cup in Marbella  Facebook
 

Roberto Moratilla filmed the last World Cup in Marbella with only his pictures camera and now, after the editing, sends us this link where everybody can watch it. Enjoy it!!

 
 
Petzl Roc Trip - Kalymnos  Facebook
 

A lesson in lifestyle and friendliness, The Petzl Kalymnos Roc Trip. Amazing pics by Anna Piunova/mountain.ru and Devaki Murch/Prana

 
 
Fischhuber & Abramchuk WC winners  Facebook
 

In the sixth and last boulder world Cup in Moscow, Kilian Fischhuber and Yulia Abramchuk. Route climbers Mrazek and Gros were #5 and #3. Among the women only Ansade from France was the only women outside Eastern Europe, in the Top-13. Complete results and rankings Overall, Jerome Meyer and Olga Bibik won.

 
 
8c+ by Pablo Barbero  Facebook
 

After two years with no news from him due to his preparation for passing the official exams to become a fireman in Madrid and after the success on it, Pablo Barbero has returned into the actuality of the climbing world with the sent of the route El Intento, 8c+ in Cuenca.

Pablo didn't want to pronounce about the grade which FA Dani Andrada graded 8c+/9a. Patxi Usobiaga and Ramón Julián, registered it as an 8c+ and also Iker Pou has repeated it. Old interview.

 
 
Web-live from Moscow  Facebook
 

Friday, the semifinal from the last World Cup in Moscow is broadcasted live. Among the men Jerome Meyer and Kilian Fischhuber have already secured gold and silver. In the female category, Olga Bibik is most likely to take the title ahead of Juliette Danion and Anna Stöhr.

 
 
8B+ by Parsons  Facebook
 

Chris Webb Parsons has made the 3rd(?) ascent of Matt Wrigley's Pretty hate machine, 8B+, in the Hollow Mountain Cave, Grampians. It seems he's now working the cave link-up, Dai Koyamada's 65-move monster Wheel of life, 8C+/9a+. Parson's has pretty much repeated everything hard in the area already.

 
 
Test-Pilot review of Tendon ropes  Facebook
 

8a members have bought 12 ropes from Tendon at 50 % discount. Here is their very positive review!

 
 
Dave MacLeod interview  Facebook
 

Here you'll find an interview with Dave MacLeod, made by Youri van Vliet. Enjoy! Dave is the guy who did an 8c+ trad this summer and who is is portraited in the E11 DVD.

 
 
European Youth Cup  Facebook
 

Katharina Saurwein and Johanna Ernst took the fourth straight win in the European Youth Cup in Annecy. They also won the Youth Champs. Jakob Schubert has got three straight victories. Complete results

 
 
Hirayama wins Asian champs  Facebook
 

Yuji Hirayama, who won his first World cup in 1991, won the lead event at the Asian Champs. Among the women, 20 years younger, Akiyo Noguchi won the bouldering and she was second in lead. Akiyo, 17, won the bronze in the senior worlds in Munich 2006.

 
 
Lifestyle at Kalymnos & 9b  Facebook
 

Most of the 20 pros and Chris Sharma say that you should focus on climbing instead of training in order to improve. Get your (performance) motivation just from climbing and your preferred climbing lifestyle.

We also did a long interview with Chris (it will appear in the yearbook). In addition, one of our reporters asked him about 8a's speculation on the grade of his DWS. 8a has suggested 9b if you include the mental challenge?
Chris sais: "Grades are helpful to measure progress but I rather search for the perfect lines. It felt (physically) like 9a but you might be right with your suggestion...the anxiety before the dyno... we will see" ;)

 
 
Martina and Charlotte do Ultimate route  Facebook
 

The female Ultimate route, 8b, at the Kalymnos Roc trip was done by both Martina Cufar (55 minutes) and Charlotte Durif (75 min) today. It is a 55 meter long route which starts down in the bottom of a massive hole that resembles a giant crater. No success so far on the male route which is in upside down land with radical tufa climbing for 50 metres.
Ethan Pringle flashed Draconian Devil, 8b+ first established by Steve McClure in 2004.

 
 
Todd Skinner dead in Yosemite  Facebook
 

American free-climbing pioneer Todd Skinner, 47, was killed October 23, while descending fixed ropes on the Leaning Tower in Yosemite. Skinner and Jim Hewitt were working a new free route, when, during a rappel, Skinner's belay-loop snapped. Full story on UK Climbing

 
 
Ultimate route challenge  Facebook
 

07.30 tomorrow morning, we will accompany Chris Sharma for the one hour boat trip as he will start to work the Ultimate route at 09.30 until 10.30. Chris voluntarily picked the first start position. Next in line; Steve McClure, Dani Andrada and another 12 men and 6 women during two days. The ultimate route for the men is a 50 metre monster overhanging by 35-40 metres.

It is amazing for us from the 8a team that all celebrities are actually keen to contribute to the climbing community by giving out their best tips and tricks. Stay updated, we will post some interesting thoughts from Sharma etc tomorrow ;-)

 
 
Watch some bouldering?  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge Picture[Soul Cal Dvd Review]

 
 
Action at Kalymnos  Facebook
 

- I am so psyched! David Graham arrives with the moped and tells me that he did the 65 meter long crimpy, only slightly overhanging route, Tritan rope 8c+!? at Kalymnos, earlier today. Most of the celebreties are here now and there will be plenty of action, parties and interviews. We will focus on giving you some training tips from the pros.

 
 
Rosta Stefanek does 9a!?  Facebook
 

Rosta Stefanek has done Monolithic Baby in Frankenjura, 8c+/9a or somewhere around that mark. Rosta, who also did an 8c and a 8A+ last week, has, based on rankings for the last four years, only been beaten by David Graham.

 
 
Film from Roc trip Millau  Facebook
 

The film from the Roc trip Millau has received 1497 clicks in 48 hours. It is really nice with an interview of Charlotte Durif and Chris Sharma who answers both in french and spanish. The funniest thing is when Dani Andrada is coaching Chris, like a latino radio commentator, through the crux sequence. 8a will keep you updated live from Roc trip Kalymnos.

 
 
Articles update  Facebook
 

Hardest trad routes in the world
Boulder routes
Climber of 2006
8a member Gallery
Automatic update of friends ascents
Redpoint and Preclipping

 
 
 
8A by Anne Gray (44)  Facebook
 

Anne Gray (44) has done her second 8A, Metronome in Plex. Anne is #6 in the boulder ranking. Anyone who could help us out with an interview?

 
 
Santa Claus in Hueco  Facebook
 

Gabor Szekely (16) did four 8A's in Hueco on Christmas Eve. Earlier this week, he did five 8A+'.

 
 
8C by Christian Core  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureInfoBoulder and Freakclimbing report Christian Core has done the 5th ascent of New Base Line, 8C, in the Magic Woods. Christian, who was #4 in the Boulder World Cup 2006, is actually one of the very few boulderer performing excellent on both rock and comps. Photo: Stella Marchisio

 
 
8c+ FA by Jorg Verhoeven  Facebook
 

Jorg Verhoeven has put up a new 8c+ at the China Mauer, The great gig in the sky. Jorg, who was 6 in the World Cup 2006, is #7 at the 8a ranking.

 
 
8A by Sasha Digiulian (14)  Facebook
 

Sasha Digiulian has done her first 8A, (No name) in the Kraft Boulders. When you don't know the name you could try to locate and describe it in the comment field so others might assist you with a name. Interview with the 14-year-old who is #2 in the boulder rankings. Sasha was #11 in the Youth Worlds.

 
 
8b+ by Klemen Becan  Facebook
 

Klemen Becan has onsigted Falconetti, 8b+ in Mont Sant. Klemen, who mainly climbs onsigt old interview, is #8 in the world ranking.

 
 
9a by David Graham  Facebook
 

David Graham seems to be back in full shape from his long finger injury this summer. Yesterday, he repeated A muerte, 9a, in Siurana. But as always, David is humble and brave and says that it might be down graded. Dave is #1 in the combined ranking.

 
 
First 8c+ by Daniel Moreno  Facebook
 

Daniel Moreno has done Powerade, 8c+ in Vadiello. Daniel is turning 19 tomorrow.

 
 
7C+ for Anne Gray 45  Facebook
 

Anne Gray has done her second 7C+ this year, L.L. Cool in Plex. Anne is actually #6 in the world ranking, pretty good for being 45.

 
 
8c+/9a by Loic Fossard  Facebook
 

escalade-alsace.comLoic Fossard has done the first repetition of Pierre Bollinger's L'arquée type du mal, 8c+/9a in Kronthal. 8a think that (/) slash grades are unnecessary. However, a very doubtful FA can use it temporary but later one grade should be chosen. Grades are not that important (that we need slashgrades ;-)

 
 
8B+/C by Dai  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDai Koyamada: "I completed the project which I had been working for a year at Shiobara on 30th November.
It is 8m long, overhangs 160° degrees and has 17 moves which needs monster power of mono and two finger pocket."
Hydra weighs in around 8B+/C.
Well, the pictures speak for themselves!

 
 
8B+/C by Rouhling  Facebook
 

Last Thursday, Fred Rouhling opened a new hard problem at Le Bourrinoire(Haute Savoie, France). More than 20 moves, 12/15m roof on small holds Soumission 8B+/8C. "It's huge, the hardest at Le Bourrinoire! Nobody is moving in the two 8B's I opened last winter, but this one is one step beyond." In 1995, Fred put up Akira, 9b - check comment.
Video of the first ascent Source: Kairn

 
 
9a by Usobiaga, #1 world ranking  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePatxi Usobiaga is the 8a new world ranking leader after having put up Begi Puntuan, 9a in Etxauri. This means that Patxi has done eleven 8c+'s and harder in 2006. Adding seven 8b+'s OS and harder and you understand why he is #1 at the 8a world ranking. Four out of Top-5 are Spaniards not counting Edu Marin.

 
 
Jorgeson repeats Bishop's hardest  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKevin Jorgeson has made the 4th ascent of what's probably the hardest problem in Bishop, The Swarm, 8B+. Kevin needed two days of effort and wasted lots of skin. He also repeated Jason Kehl's ultra highball Evilution, 8A/B. Read Kevin's full account of the sends and check out some awesome pictures here!

 
 
World record by Ramonet!?  Facebook
 

Ramón Julián Puigblanque has, during the last four days, climbed 10 routes valued 8b+ and better in points, giving him a one week score of 12 280 pts, i.e. #8 in the annual ranking.

Ramonet is currently ranked #2 based on his climbs the last year. He will need another 8b onsight to become #1, ahead of fellow Spaniard Dani Andrada.

 
 
Two 8b+ onsights by Patxi  Facebook
 

Ramonet isn't the only Spaniard who's onsighting hard stuff at the moment. This past weekend, Patxi Usobiaga onsighted Andujar power and Proyect de ricardo, both 8b+. He also found time to climb Guayamo, 8c, and another 8b+. In the current annual rankings 4 out of the top-5 are Spaniards.

 
 
8c flash by Yoshi Verhoeven  Facebook
 

Jorg Verhoeven went to Misja Pec after his bronze in Kranj and flashed Korrida, 8c. 'It is a classic 8c in osp, 30 meter long, two crux sessions, on tufa's and crimpers. I belayed Magnus Midtboe on it and did it afterwards.' Yoshi is #7 in the 8a ranking.

 
 
Tyler Landman (16) climbs Dreamtime  Facebook
 

Tyler Landman, very much the coming man of the year, has repeated the ultra classic Dreamtime, 8B+, in Cresciano. Ty says that it's "the most impressive and aesthetic boulder" he has ever climbed and that he feels it's "proper 8B+". Full story and photos on Planetfear

 
 
New 8C by Dai  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge Picture'I completed a project at Kanoto, Tokyo which I had been trying. I named it Orochi and I think it is like 8C. The problem consists of 13 moves. A 7 move traverse links to an 8A with a dyno.' Dai Koyamada is #2 in the bulder and #1 in the All Time Combined ranking. Photo: Ikuko Serata

 
 
Ramonet is in the zone  Facebook
 

Ramón Julián Puigblanque who two days ago onsigthed his third 8c, Malsoñando in Gandia, has today onsighted El ultimo mono, 8b+ in Sella. Ramonet advances to #2 in the rankings!

 
 
8a+ by Cathy Wagner (41)  Facebook
 

Cathy Wagner has done Au ras des paquerettes, 8a+ in Pont de soleil. This was the 26th 8a and > the last 12 months. Cathy is #7 in the female redpoint ranking.

 
 
First 8b(+) by Silvie Rajfova  Facebook
 

Silvie Rajfova has done her first 8b(+), Marioneta in Misja Pec. Silvie (17) is third in the junior ranking. She has won one European Youth Cup in 2006.

 
 
American boulder teens  Facebook
 

The junior boulder ranking is totally dominated by productive USA Teens. No European in Top-10. Daniel Woods has 62 8A's and harder include five 8B+'s.

Paul Robinsson has 68 8A's and harder including Roses and Bluejayes, 8B in Great Barrington which was done yesterday. Jon Cardwell has 28 8A's and harder including his latest ascent of The Saadhu, 8B+ at the Temple.

 
 
8B+ by Unterregelsbacher  Facebook
 

Sebastian Unterregelsbacher has done Forget about life for a while, 8B+ in Frankenjura. Sebastian has previously only done 8A+ so he should be quite happy.

 
 
First 8B+ for Moon!  Facebook
 

Ben Moon has finally climbed the sitter to his 8B problem Voyager in the Burbage valley! In a tense year that saw the problem get two ascents (Tyler Landman and Paul Bennett), Ben must have been crossing his fingers that neither of these strong youngsters would beat him to the prize! Full story on our UK-site and on on Ben's own Moon Climbing

 
 
8c+ by David Gambús  Facebook
 

David Gambús has done La Novena puerta, 8c+ at Santa Linya. The world's biggest cave near Barcelona has been closed May - September, due to archeological explorations.

 
 
9a for Ondra? Yes, no... YES!  Facebook
 

After Adam Ondra's ascent of Martin Krpan it was said in a comment (see below), that he'd made a mistake and not climbed it the right way. After this we received an email saying, Adam's way was indeed right and, if anything, harder. Based on this, the topo and the video, we at 8a.nu think that Adam has made a valid ascent of the route. An obvious conclusion is that the ethical debate about combinations, contrieved routes and eliminates needs to continue.

 
 
Video of Ondra climbing Martin Krpan, 9a  Facebook
 

Czech Climbing has a video of Adam succeeding on Martin Krpan, 9a. Nice t-shirt, don't you think;)

 
 
Mario Prinoth repeats 'Solo per vecchi guerrieri'  Facebook
 

Mario Prinoth has made the 2nd ascent of Manolo's extremely hard four-pitch route Solo per vecchi guerrieri on the "El Colaz" rock face above Aune in the Feltre Dolomites. Manolo estimated the difficulty of the last pitch to somewhere between 8c and 9a. Prinoth now confirms this rating. Full story and pictures on Planet Mountain

 
 
9a by Adam Ondra  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureBrano Goga reports that Adam Ondra, 13, has climbed Martin Krpan, 9a in Misja Pec! This was his first 9a and Adam also managed to onsight his 8th 8b this year. Adam is #3 in the senior world ranking and probably the best 13-year-old athlete in the world.
Says Adam: "The route starts right of "Sonce v oceh" and goes through "Pingvin" to "Marjetica". Till here it's around 8b. Now without any rest comes the crux with bad clipping quickdraw and then some 10 meters of "Missing drink" (from the start of the crux to the top it is about 8c). Most tries finished in that crux, just once I fell in "Missing drink". In the following try I did it. I started trying it 14 days ago, when I was there 3 days. And this trip I was there two days."

 
 
8b+ by Sarah Seeger  Facebook
 

Scarpa.com and Freakclimbing.com reports that Sarah Seeger has done her third 8b+, Smith&Wesson in Frankenjura. Earlier this week Sarah also did, two 8b's.

 
 
Robinson climbs Circadian Rhythm, 8B  Facebook
 

Paul Robinson has, inspite of a fever, made the 6th ascent of Dave Graham's Circadian Rhythm, hard 8B, in the Poudre canyon. This was the 19-year-old's 9th 8B.

 
 
Onsight strike at Kalymnos  Facebook
 

The scorecards from David Graham and Kleman Becan is full of hard onsights. It seems like Kleman hardly missed any since he reports onsights of two 8b's, eight 8a+'s and nine 8a's. David's scorecard shows three 8b's and five 8a+'s. Further more Manuel Romain also onsighted "Rendez vous with Platon", 8b as well as three 8a+'s.

 
 
Franz Widmer makes 4th ascent of NBL, 8C  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureFranz Widmer has made the 4th ascent of Bernd Zangerl's New baseline, 8C, in the Averstal. The problem follows a slopy crimpline to hard moves on micro-crimps towards the end. Says Franz: "A lot of good climbers tried it and didn't succeed. And if it would have been easy going for me, one have the feeling it's too easy. But it wasn't... like for me on my thousands of tries." On Dreilandrock you'll find the full story as well as great pictures.

 
 
Dai's 6 weeks in France  Facebook
 

Dai is now back in Japan after spending 6 weeks in France. Unfortunately, the weather was generally pretty bad, but Dai still managed to put up a new 8C in Fontainebleau: "I completed Angama, a project at Coquibus in Fontainebleau on 24th
October. The project is a sit start from the left arete then traverse to link up Fata I Helvete which I made the first ascent of two years ago.
I tried for 2 days that time and this time I completed it in 4 days.
The weather had been bad during my stay in France and I tried the project in not a good condition. It was not a perfect but a good condition because the strong wind had been blowing from the night before the day I did it.
I felt it is like 8C problem but you may feel easier when you try it in good conditions. I look forward to have opinions from repeaters."

 
 
8c+ or 9a by Matej Sova  Facebook
 

Matej Sova has put up Ekstaza, 8c+/9a in Misja Pec and he is humble enough to register it as an 8c+, losing 50 points.

8a do not think that grades are important or exact enough for us to need /-slash grades. A doubtful First Ascentionist can of course speculate if it is 8c+ or 9a meaning that other climbers can choose. Feel free to comment!

 
 
8a+ by Monique Forestier  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMonique Forestier has done a new 8a+ in the Red river gorge, Kaleidoscope. During her visit to Red river, she has onsighted 7 routes given 7c and harder and she is #10 in the female ranking.

 
 
8c+ by Zehani  Facebook
 

Cristophe Zehani has done Le complexe d'adipeux (intégrale), 8c+ in Loumarin. It is 45 metres, 110 moves long and it took him 35 tries. Cristophe is #8 in the world rankings.

 
 
8b action and rain at Kalymnos  Facebook
 

On the last day of action at Kalymnos, Daila Ojeda and Steve McClure also did the Ultimate routes, 8b & 8c. Said Belhaj onsighted Rendez with platon, 8b at Jurassic Park. One week of sunshine ended with a giant party and today the winter season rain did arrive.

 
 
Sharma & Andrada ultimates at Kalymnos  Facebook
 

Out of the 15 invited pros, only Chris Sharma and Dani Andrada did the Ultimate. Two guys from the Petzl team have spent five weeks, sometimes sleeping at the beach, just to put up new spectacular routes in the Sikati crater. The suggested grade for the Ultimate route is 8c.

 
 
2nd ascent of "The Abyss" A Bindhammer  Facebook
 

Andreas Bindhammer has made the 2nd ascent of Alex Chabot's Abyss, 9a. Andreas said the route was the hardest he's ever climbed and that he felt like it could be around 9a/+. Nice Climb

 
 
8c+ for Woods and Ramonet  Facebook
 

Both Daniel Woods and Ramon Julian Puigblanque climbed 8c+ this weekend. For Daniel it was the second of the grade when he did Necessary evil, he also threw in an 8c for good measure, while it was more like another day at the office for Ramonet who dispatched L'espiadimonis for his 22nd 8c+-or-harder. Daniel is still only 17 whereas Ramonet has now reached the respectable age of 25 (would you believe it!).

 
 
New 8C by Dai in Font  Facebook
 

Dai Koyamada has added a traverse start to his own Fata i Helvete, 8b/+, which he thinks checks in around 8C. Conditions in Font haven't been that great lately, but maybe that has changed for the better now. Let's hope so!
Bleau Info, FreakClimbing

 
 
No 8B flash after all...  Facebook
 

Both Paul Robinson and Matt Wilder now say Secret splendour is not 8B, but rather 8A+. Says Robinson: " I dont think it is 8B. Most people are considering soft 8A+ now. New beta has been found, def not 8B."
Jamie Emerson reports: "Matt Wilder has done Secret Splendour 3rd go and said it is bottom end V12 (8A+). Wilder tried to flash the four move problem, and fell on the third move. He then did the upper moves first go (which he humbly counted as an attempt) and then did the problem second try from the start, saying that it was an entry level V12. Still an impressive flash from James Pearson, but not 8B."
It seems we'll have to wait some more for the first 8B flash, but like Emerson said, it's still a very impressive flash!

 
 
8B flash by Pearson!  Facebook
 

Email from Shane Boen: "Hello, thought I would let you know about James Pearson's (UK) impressive tick list from his recent short visit to Colorado. One of his goals was to flash 8B, and he came very close on a number of problems, including Nuthin but sunshine and Dark waters. He finally managed his goal, flashing Secret splendor on Sunday 15th October. He also almost did Freaks of the industry, 8B+, on his first redpoint attempt, but failed to get good enough conditions on return visits.
Bush pilot 8A, 3rd go
No more greener grass, 8A+, 1 session
Dark waters, 8B, almost flashed fell on the 7B finish!
Clear blue sky, 8B
Silverback, 8A, 1 hour
Secret splendor, 8B, flash
Here is a video of James climbing Keen roof at Raven Tor.

 
 
Another 8B by Caminati  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMichele Caminati has repeated Deep throat in the Averstal and suggests 8B instead of 8B+, due to a new method. At the tender age of 21, Michele a.k.a. "the Italian with the pecs" already has 9 8B's and harder to his name. 4 in Font, 3 in Avers and two in Varazze. His hardest, Hip hop assis, was done more than 1.5 years ago, so maybe he's ready to move up a notch or two now.

 
 
Katha Saurwein (18) onsights 8a+  Facebook
 

Katha Saurwein has onsighted her first 8a+, Shopska salat, 8a+ in St. Trinity, Bulgaria. In 2006, Katha has three straight wins in the European Youth Cup and she has won the Youth World Championship. 8a has Katha as the #4 Junior of 2006.

 
 
8B+ by Stefanek  Facebook
 

Rosta Stefanek has done Sunshine, 8B+ in Labske Udoli. Rosta is #6 in the boulder rankings.

 
 
Fabio Droetto does 8c+  Facebook
 

fabriziodroetto.com/ reports that he has done Noia, 8c+ at Andonno. Noia is a classic popular route which was put up in 1993 by Severino Scassa and it is a combination of Noi and Cobra.

 
 
8b+ by Jorg Verhoven  Facebook
 

Climbing.nl reports that Jorg Verhoeven has opened Big Jim, 8b+ in Gschlössl. Jorg was #2 in the World Cup 2005.

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