Erik Grandelius seems to be in the best shape of his life, having onsighed two 8b's and done his first 9a, Cabane au Canada in Rawyl. "We spent two weeks in Switzerland. The first day I realized that I was in good shape as I surprised myself by falling at the chains on the onsight of Paradis Articifiel 8c. We stayed another two days in Rawyl but then it became to warm (even though it is at 2000 meters) so we went to Gastlosen for a week. When we came back I sent the Cabane au Canada the first day on the second try. Altogether I made six tries over three days. I feel that I have reached a deeper focus in my climbing, especially the last four days of the trip I dwelved into an almost meditative state as soon as a tied in, even on warm-ups. During the trip a was reading "Das Glasperlenspiel" by Herman Hesse and it made a great impression on my climbing. The great spiritual and intellectual discipline and the strong organization in the fictional Kastilien became an inspiration for me. I also feel that climbing hard in the alps also requires a great deal of organization and discipline as you have to time the weather, the resting, the nutrition and mental state perfectly.

96: Anak Verhoeven BEL - Bernhard Röck AUT 98: Janja Garnbret SLO - Sascha Lehmann SUI 00: Ashima Shiraishi USA - Sam Avezou FRA Complete results Both Ashima Shiraishi and Janja Garnbret did top out all four routes. Six countries did get one gold in Lead and USA with two silver was overall #1 ahead of Belgium and Slovenia with one silver. The big negative disappointment once again was Germany who did not get any youngsters in the final in both Lead and Boulder. Overall the Youth World Championship was a great success for IFSC and the organizer including the route setting team. It looks like a great future for competition climbing with the record of participants and this event will increase our possibilities to reach the Olympics.

Although Russia dominated the Speed event in the Youth World Championships in Arco, also USA, Iran, France and Poland got at least one silver. John Brosler from USA had the best time overall: 6.33. 96: Georgy Artamanov RUS - Patrycja CHUDZIAK POL 98: Kostiantyn PAVLENKO RUS - Elma FLEURET FRA 00: Petr ZEMLIAKOV RUS - Elisabetta DALLABRIDA ITA

Matteo Menardi has done La Linea dei Sogni 8c+ in Erto, which was his third of the grade during the last month. The 16-year-old says that one of the reasons why he did not participate in Arco was that he did not take part in the national meeting, which was rather far from where he lives.

Domen Škofic reports on Facebook that he managed to make the first ever onsight of Reini's Vibes 8c in Arco. (c) Luka Fonda "Later that day I returned to Massone and did the connection between Underground and Reini's Vibes called Under Vibes on my second go. It's a first repeat after @steghiso, if I'm not wrong and I agree with the 9a grade! Today I'm going to cheer for the youngsters in the finals of the WYCH

Planet Mountain reports from the Arco Rock Legends ceremony, where Alex Megos won the Salewa Rock Award and Adam Ondra won the La Sportiva Competition Award. Ondra won his first Award when he was 15 years old and in total, he has five Awards now. No other climber has won more than once. John Ellison received the title of Dryarn Climbing Ambassador by Aquafil Award for his work with Climbers Against Cancer, which has raised some 500 000 Euros beside having sold and distributed 25 000 T-shirts. (c) Giulio Malfer

Magnus Midtbø, #4 in the Lead World Champion 2011, reports on Facebook with a great picture from a 8a+ DWS flash, "Setting up for the huge dyno on Loskot and Two Smoking Barreels!! So happy to have pulled off what might be my most committing flash ever. Photo: @janvincentkleine

Petr Blaha, who did his first 8c+ when he was 35 years old, is four years later in his best shape ever having done two more routes of this grade, La totalité and Le côté obscur in Gorges du Loup. The great and inspiring story is that he started climbing more than 20 years ago!

Jernej Kruder has together with Gregor Vezonik done the first repeat of Mattias Trottman's Hattori Hanzo in Titlist Nordwand, which, at 8b+, is considered the hardest European North Face. Last year, Jernej was #2 in the Boulder World Championship and won in Arco. This year he has moved his focus also to routes, having done two 8c+'s. Check Kruder's nice report from his MP experience. Day one: wet Day two: one try in each pitch, but last one Day 3: Vezi linked first and second (5b, 6b) I was following, next 2 pitches I linked (7b, 6c), after i did 8b+ on my first go, belayed Vezi for 2 tries, led next 8a+ and almost fell, led 7a on sight without energy left and almost died of dehydration and cramps, but I did it amd I was standing on the top :D