Magnus Midtbø, #4 in the World Championships 2011, has done Era Vella in Margalef saying "Best route ever!" and giving it a personal grade of 8c+. The Norweigian has previously recorded 15 routes between 9a and 9b in his scorecard. (c) João Giacchin "Surprisingly fast in pretty damp conditions yesterday. Maybe the best route ever! Bolted and first ascended by the legend himself, Chris Sharma .Since then new beta was found and to me it feels more like 8c+ now. Grades are not written in stone and it's not science, so for them to be somewhat accurate we should all keep an open mind." Stay updated on his instagram This is in fact the third popular 9a in the area, which the Norwegian has given a personal grade for. over the years, 8a has received comments from two repeaters confirming what Magnus suggests but they did not want to go public. Last winter, Jonathan Siegrist actually compared Era Vella with some 8c's he had done. It was in 2010, Chris Sharma opened Era Vella as he was warming up suggesting it to be a soft 9a. Today, the 50 meter long and one of the best hard routes in the world, has been repeated more than 30 times, which makes it by far the most popular 9a in the world.

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Adam Ondra, the double world champion from last year, won in Kranj meaning that he got another overall victory. His first Lead overall he got in his debut season 2009, being 16 years old. Including being #3 in the Bouldering WC as well as being #2 in both the Lead and Boulder European Championship, 2015 is also his best competition season ever. Overall WC ranking - Kranj results 458 Adam Ondra CZE 400 Gauthier Supper FRA 396 Jakob Schubert AUT 376 Domen Skofic SLO 354 Romain Desgranges FRA

Gabriele Moroni, #3 in the bouldering WC in 2009, has made the first repeat of a new 8c+ Markus Bock route as well as the FA of Sid Lives 9a, both in Arco. "Incredible bouldery route I bolted a couple of years ago. I think it's a hard 8B boulder into another 7B/B+ boulder. All in 10meters of climbing. 9a? Let's see what other people think!" Based on that he is a boulder expert who has done several short 9a's before. Climbers will probably think it is pretty hard.

Chris Sharma comes with great news on Instagram: Dani Andrada has done the fourth ascent of Chilam Balam 9a+ (b) in Villanueva del Rosario. "Huge congrats to my friend @dani_andrada_climb for sending Chillam Balam today! I'm m so psyched and proud of you man! So inspiring!!!!" (c) Henning Wang The route was put up by Bernabe Fernandez in 2003 as the world's first 9b+ which created some controversy. Adam Ondra made the first repeat in just three days in 2011 suggesting soft 9b and later Seb Bouin has also done the 80 meter, 235 moves endurance monster. Dani has previously done two 9b's in Rodellar, both of which start with some 10 meters bouldering in the Ali Baba Cave before you clip into a route. The 40-year-old, "a muerte" climber, is also famous for being the pioneer putting up hardcore routes around Lleida and especially in Santa Linya. To Desnivel La Makina says that "It is possibly the most beautiful route I've done and the best in the world". Seb said he thought it was a 9a+/b or hard 9a+. Andrada also says that it took him over an hour including 25 no-hand knee-bar rests! In total, Dani has done 3 480 routes 8a and harder, 27 out of which are 9a's and harder. La Makina also says that he climbs 300-320 days every year! The bleeding eyebrow comes from a broken hold.

Mina Markovic did get her third overall title since 2010. In the remaining the years she was #2 overall after Jain Kim. Winning in front of her home crowd, just beating Jessica Pilz and 16 year old Janja Garnbret, her possible successor, must have been awesome to say the least. Janja was previously #2 in the other two events she participated in. Overall ranking - Kranj results 527 Mina Markovic 461 Jain Kim 435 Jessica Pilz 381 Anak Verhoeven 298 Helene Janicot

The Lead World Cup finishes this weekend in Kranj like always. The WC takes place there for the 20th time in a row. All the top climbers are there including Sachi Amma and Jan Hojer who are making their first Lead entry in 2015. This is the overall standing when the worst result has been taken out. 1. Adam Ondra 358 - Mina Markovic 427 2. Gauthier Supper 357 - Jain Kim 406 3. Jakob Schubert 331 - Jessica Pilz 355 4. Domen Skofic 325 - Anak Verhoeven 330 5. Romain Desgranges 307 - Helene Janicot 251 Live streaming starts on Saturday at 20.00 with the semifinal and the finals begin on Sunday at 19.00. Digital results live