NEWS

8b+ and a 8a (+) onsight by Laura Rogora (14)
Laura Rogora has done two more impressive ascents in La Fortezza; Aia 8c redpoint and Thor onsight, giving it a personal grade of 8a. The Italian onsigthed her first two 8a+'s and redpointed her first two 8c's being 13 years old and she is #2 in the 8a ranking game. Here are some comments from her from last spring: "I have got a trainer and he is very good. He always gives me good advises not just about the sport but also for many aspect of my life. I' m training alone because in Rome there aren't many strong people at the same age as me but I would like have someone to train with." I love to overcome my limit, winning the steady struggle with myself, and whether I do not succeed, I still like to feel the harmony with the rock experiencing each single movement.

Domen ยŠkofic has done Seleccio natural 9a in Santa Linya on his 3rd go. Having done this and onsighted Rock fucks, he goes to the 4th place in the ranking game. His first 9a he did when he was 15 years old and since then he has developed in an interesting way. This year the 21-year-old was also #4 in the Lead World Cup and being from Slovenia, he is a part of their success story.

8A again by Giorgia Tesio (15)
Giorgia Tesio has done her fourth 8A, Flower Power in Ciciu. Last year, being 14 years old, she did her first 8A+, Excalibur sit in Varazze and she is #12 in the female ranking game. Earlier this year, the Italian won the Bouldering European Championship. The picture is from the video from last week, when she did Noi 8b+ in Adonno.

8c sport on trad gear by Jacopo Larcher
Jacopo Larcher reports on Facebook with a great picture by Richard Felderer that he has done Lapoterapia 8c in Osso without using the bolts and protecting it by crash pads and trad gear instead. "I arrived by night and rapped down to check the gear by headlamp, in order to have more time to work on the route in the next days. Surprisingly I didn't need so much time, and 3 goes were enough to reach the belay of this beautiful pitch without clipping any bolt! If you make everything well, you shouldn't hit the ground...but well... to place, and trust, the small gear made everything harder and spicer!" Interesting is that with an 8c grade, this route is a contender to be the hardest trad ascent in the world, which might actualize the problem of different grade systems for trad and sport climbing. The only 8c+ suggested trad route is Beth Rodden's Meltdown.

Third 9a FA in two weeks by Ramonet
Ramon Julian, the best competition climber in the world of the last 15 years, is having his best outdoor season ever. After five days of work, he made his third 9a FA, Cal Rubell in Catalonia. In total, the double world champion (who won his first WC in 2002 and this year got the European Champion title), has done 47 routes 9a and harder, out of which 16 are FAs.

Circus net instead of a rope to make an 8a+ FA
Kinloch Mason Earle, one of the best crack climbers in the world, has done the FA of Woo goes to circus camp 8A+ in a "secret crag" in Moab. Instead of using a rope for protection, he constructed a net by weaving about 2 kilometers of rope and cord. It took some four days. "Its folded up in my attic now. I'll keep my eye out for more roof cracks to rig it under! I am obviously not the first person to try this, but this fall the idea got in my head. I realized that a long roof crack could be climbed with a net under you. I found a nice roof crack out in the desert- it's about 50 feet long and looked like the perfect spot for a net. It took me and a few friends 4 days to weave the net. 5,300 feet of cord! it took another full day to rig the net under the crack, it was some complicated rigging- mostly on trad gear. The crack turned out to be pretty tricky, probably 8a+. It was hard to project- once you fall, you have to start from the beginning. no hangdogging! The falls were scary at first, but once we realized it worked, it was like falling into a cloud. very comfortable"

8 December 2015

8B+ (C) by Jan Hojer

Jan hojer completed three 8B's in addition to Toupie Carnivore assis in Fontainebleau, which he gave a personal grade of 8B+. Last year the 186 cm tall power house won the Boulder World Cup. In 2015, he was #2.