NEWS

Second 9a+ by Mateusz Haล‚adaj
Mateusz Haล‚adaj continues to progress and goes to #8 in the 8a ranking game with his second 9a+ done during the last year, First Ley in Margalef. "HELL YES! The best sequence Iโ€™ve tried on rock. Was dreaming about this awkward tufas since I saw Chris on it several years ago. First Ley goes left just before the last crux of FRFM 9b, now psyched to try the original finish in winter!"

First 9a for Hernan Garcia
Hernan Garcia, who started climbing in 2004 when he was 22 years old, has done his first 9a, Fuck the system in Santa Linya. (c) Henning Wang "I started to try the route one year ago after I had sent Digital System but not seriously. It was in January 2016 that it got seriously and thanks to the advises from Diego Marsella that I could link all the moves. It was a nice experience when I saw a few strong climbers like Domen Skofic send the route very fast and I got extra motivation. Finally yesterday I was able to send it on my second go despite the hot conditions, Now the motivation is high to try some new project in the Santa Linya cave."

Goldrake 9a+ by Stefano Ghisolfi
Stefano Ghisolfi, who did a 9b FA last year as well as being #9 in the Led World Cup has done Goldrake 9a+ in Cornalba. "Had some problem with the top slab, but did it in 4 days! Really nice route, sharp for the skin." ยฉ Enrico Veronese So what is your plan, ambition for 2016 and how do you prepare for this? I think I'm going to try some projects in Italy and then compete in lead world cups. My ambition is always the podium. But I'd like to be more regularly. My trainer Roberto Bagnoli trains me with a strict program, power, power endurance and endurance in the last months. But my passion for rock is too strong that I need to climb outside once a week at least.

Mammut is looking for a climber with a deep knowledge of the sport and customer needs. You should bring basic education in business administration or marketing and possibly some work experience in the climbing industry. Some basic German skills are required โ€“ therefore the job description is in German only.

It often takes at least 10 minutes to unpack a new rope before you can climb with it. In the video you can see a new way of unpacking a rope in just two minutes. However, when it comes to Tendon ropes, no unpacking is needed, you can just climb directly.

David Mason sums up his 58 days in Font
David Mason has written a nice blog after his 58 days in Fontainebleau. (c) Jimy Webb "So there you have it, six boulders (6B+ to 8B/+) that sum up my trip; from hidden gems to sandbags, mental battles to realization but at the end of the day itโ€™s just another climbing trip and I will go through these trials and tribulations many times more I am sure. Hopefully though I have learnt a little and next time I will be more prepared.

Shooting photos and videos from small helicopters has and will continue to change the media scene. Next up are drones that can be used for pre-clipping carabiners meaning that you do not need to carry 15 quickdraws on an onsight attempt. The new climbing revolution drone will also come with brushing rotor propellars that will do the trick. 8a is currently testing out a prototype and several guys have already made their personal best after the drone pre-clipped everything as well as brushed all holds. Coming up today is actually making the drone carrying the rope to the top clipping it in an anchor. The drone revolution has just begun and it sure looks nice.

Anak Verhoeven, who was #4 in the Lead World Cup last year, has done her second 9a, the FA of Me belle ma muse in Romeyer. Just later, it was repeated by Jean-Elie Crestin-Billet and here is his video. Jean-Elie actually called it an 8c+/9a.

Estado Critico 9a by Bouyoud and Pintar
Mathieu Bouyoud has done Estado Critico 9a in Siurana and a few days later it was also done by Gaลกper Pintar who has written an interesting blog with nice reflections. "Myself a few years ago, coming from a background of youth competitions and obsessive training, I was hung up about my performance and had a number of uncertainties and doubts. I would never believe I would one day climb something like this because I was too weak or it simply seemed so abstract. Slowly over the years I made away with the misconceptions about my climbing by stopping pushing for it and going with the natural flow of things, climbing a lot, becoming stronger and finding climbing more fun as more and more things became possible."