Note that Adam Ondra son klibini yapıyor fakat çıkışını kutlamadan 40 saniye ve altı hamle daha yaparak tırmanışa devam ediyor. Bu ise rota açıcının değil kayanın tanımladiğı sınırda rotayı bitirmek anlamına geliyor. Muhtemelen kötü kaya yapısı veya ip sürtünmesi son boltun yerinde etkili olmalı. Ondra bir kez daha bir ileri adımı gösteriyor.

Nicolai Užžnik has done his first 8B, Wrestling with an Alligator in Malatal. What is interesting, he found a new beta so instead of doing the dyno and taking the swing, he just kept crimping. "I sent the boulder in my first session in Maltatal after more than 2 months without climbing because of a finger injury. I did not expect to climb it that fast because the last few holds where completely wet, so I'm really happy about that. This season didn't worked as I wanted it, due to my injury where I missed both boulder and lead European Youth Championships and now also the World Youth Championships in China.

Michaela Kiersch has done her second 8c+ in Red River Gorge in 2016, Lucifer. (c) Andy Wickstrom "Sooo psyched!!!! Surprise send on one of my projects this weekend, Lucifer. It's so rewarding to know that my hustlin is paying off. I will be the first to admit that juggling school, work, and climbing has been overwhelming and challenging this year. But education is something I value deeply and I take pride in knowing that I can succeed in climbing and in school. After stuffing my face with and driving the looooong 7 hours home I snuck in some studying for this 8am exam that I'm about to take. Wish me luck!

UKC reports that William Bosi has done the seventh ascent of Ben Moon's Hubble from 1990. Moon suggested 8c+ and although none of the repeaters have suggested an upgrade some have made this speculation. Interesting is that UKC does not mention this but just state that Hubble is a 9a, meaning it being the first route of this grade in the world.

Dave Graham, one of the best guys out there for the last 15 years, comes on FB with the amazing news that he has done his first 8C+. In fact, this is the world's first confirmed 8C+! (c) Cameron Maier/Bearcam "WOW!!! Elated to make the 2nd ascent of @dawoods89 new rig Creature From the Black Lagoon yesterday up in Upper Chaos!!! After around 16 days of effort since the spring, I managed to figure out the incredibly subtle change to my sequence which opened the gateway for the send!! After so many days of regression and frustrating conditions, late night pondering, hundreds of failed ideas, the solution had been in front of me the entire time. A crazy arm-torque turned stand-up yoga-type movement was the enabling addition in my sequence, allowing me to engage the undercling I battled with for so long properly, and achieve the body position I needed to keep it moving forward." Continue reading the exciting mini novel which finishes with these words: "This climb suits me, but still pushed me farther than anything I have ever done that is graded 8C. Time will tell, but 8C+ seems completely logical. Photos and video coming soon up at @island_io"

Andy Raether, who did his first 8c+ FA out of eight 13 years ago, has done his first 9a, The Eggporkalypse in Mt Potosi. " I've been working it on and off for 6 years. I sent Reverse Polarity 14b (8c) 9 times before I sent the whole thing. When you combine the whole thing it is a 14b into an ok rest and then another 14b. It is by a magnitude the most amount of work I have put into any project. I spent a year and a half specifically working on increasing my finger strength to be able to do it as well."

Rock & Ice has published an interesting article where they say that according to research, carabiners that have fallen to the ground are safe to use. "Omega Pacific also tested carabiners that had been dropped from unknown heights off El Cap. If anything, O.P.'s report shows that a piece of gear gets stronger while flying through the atmosphere then impacting rock—those dropped carabiners broke at loads higher than their rated strengths ." It should be noted that Rock & Ice missed out this important piece of advice from Omega which actually goes against what is said in the article and the quote. "Don’t climb on gear you salvage from the base of cliffs, regardless how sturdy our little box of kit turned out, that’s first. Second, if you drop any piece of hardware from high up, you should just retire it. When you trust your life to a piece of equipment, you don’t need the doubt. Plus, it’s a good, professional practice, anyway."

Paul Robinson has done his 16th 8C, Topaz in RMNP, of which Dave Graham did the FA just two weeks ago and which has been done also Daniel Woods. "It has been crazy lately! We have been finding and developing so many new boulders in Colorado. All of which are really good quality! I am really excited about the new lines and also trying to repeat some of the old ones. Having an entire fall in Colorado has allowed me to train a bit in the gym and climb outside a lot! I am super psyched to have climbed topaz and look forward to some more."

Rock & Ice yere düşen karabinaların kullanımının güvenli olduğundan bahseden bir araştırma yayınladı. "Omega Pacific ayrıca El Cap in belirsiz bir yerinden düşen karabinaları da test etti. O.P.'nin araştırması düşen bir malzemenin bir taşa vurduktan sonra daha yüksek kuvvetlere dayandığını gösteriyor." Şu da not edilmeli ki Rock & Ice, Omega'nın aslında yayınladıkları makale ve alıntıya karşı olan söylemini gözden kaçırmış görünüyor. "Kayaların dibinde bulduğunuz ne olduğu belli olmayan malzemeleri kullanmayın, her ne kadar sağlam olursa olsun, bu önceliğimizdir. İkinci olarak, herhangi bir malzemeyi yukarıdan düşürdüyseniz, onu kullanmayı bırakmalısınız. Hayatınızı bir ekipmana emanet edeceğiniz zaman şüpheye yer vermemelisiniz. Ayrıca, bu profesyonelce davranmaktır da."

Dave Graham, son 15 yılın en iyi tırmanıcılarından FB ve ilk 8C+ kısakaya çıkışını yaptı. Aslına bakarsanız bu dünyanın ilk doğrulanmış 8C+'sı. (c) Cameron Maier/Bearcam "WOW!!! @dawoods89'un yeni rotası Creature From the Black Lagoon'u ikinci çıkışını yaptıktan sonra dün Upper Chaos daydım!!! Bahardan bu yana 16 günlük uğraşın ardından, inanılmaz ince bir ayarla rotayı algılayabildim ki bu hana çıkışın yolunu açtı! Gerilimli ve sinir bozucu şartlar altındaki bir çok günden sonra, gece yarısı kurgularım, yüzlerce çuvallayan çözüm sonrasında anladım ki aslında çözüm en başından beri gözümün önündeymiş. Çılgın bir kol bükme acayip yoga hareketi tüm bölümü birleştirmemi sağladı, ne zamandır didindiğim alt tutuşu birleştirmeme izin verdi ve ilerlemek için ihtacım olan vücut pozisyonunu elde etmemi sağladı." Continue reading Ve son olarak: "Bu tırmanış bana uydu ve beni daha önce çıktığım tüm 8C lerden daha çok zorladı. Zaman gösterecek, ama 8C+ bana tamamen mantıklı göründü. Fotoğraf ve videolar yakında @island_io"