NEWS

It took IFSC several days after the World Championship in Paris to present the Combined results and for the Youths, it is the same again. Here is the only thing that they have presented so far: "Two months after becoming Combined world champion, Elena Krasovskaia of Russia was crowned Combined world youth champion after qualifying for the Finals in all three disciplines. Garnbret also competed in Speed -ยญ the first time this season -ยญ and finished ahead of Russian Luiza Emeleva. Raboutou claimed the title in Youth B, followed by Austrian Celina Schoibl and Rogora. Finally, Hayes placed 15th in Speed to top her third podium! Andrea Kรผmin of Switzerland and Russian Iuliia Panteleeva joined her on the podium. For the Males, Avezou also climbed in all three Finals for the unanimous Combined victory. Colombo and Martin rounded out the Youth B podium. Arsรจne Duval of France and Italian Pietro Biagini climbed in the Lead Finals of Youth A and placed first and third. Finishing second was Pan Yufei of China, who received warm applause from his home crowd. Although Lehmann missed each Finals, his steady performance earned him the Combined win. British Bouldering finalist William Bosi finished in second and German Ruben Firnenburg placed third."

Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi, who has previously redpointed an 8c, has onsighted his first 7c+, Mirtoglicerina in Margalef. It should be noted that in order to motivate youngsters to do more onsight climbing, we will more or less stop reporting redpoints for kids under 15.

Sachi Amma Leonidio'nun geleceฤŸin tฤฑrmanฤฑลŸ bรถlgesi olacaฤŸฤฑna inanฤฑyor
- Bรถylesine bir manzarayฤฑ ve misafirperverliฤŸi daha รถnce hiรง tecrรผbe etmemiลŸtim. Japonya'dan tek baลŸฤฑma gelip sahil boyunca direksiyon salladฤฑktan sonra birรงok samimi insanla tanฤฑลŸmak harika oldu. TฤฑrmanฤฑลŸ รงok iyi ve kayanฤฑn kalitesi yรผksek. Dรถrt sektรถrรผn iรงinden estetik ve eลŸsiz รถzel hatlarฤฑ denemeye รงalฤฑลŸtฤฑm. Diyebilirim ki burasฤฑnฤฑn bรผyรผk bir tฤฑrmanฤฑลŸ bรถlgesi olma potansiyeli var. Sachi Amma kฤฑsa bir sunum yapmak ve sorularฤฑ cevaplamak รผzere ilk Leonidio TฤฑrmanฤฑลŸ Festival'ne davet edildi. Dakikalar iรงinde seyirciler kendilerini gรผldรผren ve samimi cevaplar veren bu adama ฤฑsฤฑndฤฑlar. - Leonidio'da yaลŸayan insanlarฤฑn sฤฑrrฤฑnฤฑ bilmek istiyorum. Japonya'da insanlar bu kadar misafirperver deฤŸil. Ne oluyor burda anlamadฤฑm. - Sana buralฤฑ bir kฤฑz bulalฤฑm? (Belediye BaลŸkanฤฑ soruyor). - Kฤฑz arkadaลŸฤฑm olmasaydฤฑ iyi olurdu aslฤฑnda. - Tฤฑrmanฤฑrken baฤŸฤฑrmaya baลŸlarsam 9a รงฤฑkabilir miyim sence? - ร‡ok iyi bir soru :) ลžu anki tฤฑrmanฤฑลŸ derecen nedir? Biliyor musun genรงken idollerim Chris ve Adam sรผrekli tฤฑrmanฤฑrken baฤŸฤฑrฤฑyorlardฤฑ ve ben de bรถyle baลŸladฤฑm. Sanฤฑyorum baฤŸฤฑrmak kuvvetli nefes รงฤฑkฤฑลŸฤฑyla sana hayvani bir gรผรง verebilir.

In comparison with other physical sports, female climbers' performances are really close to the male's. The best example is Ashima Shiraishi and there are probably about 100 female who do at least an 8c Route or an 8A Boulder every year. However, when it comes to onsight and flash, female are relatively poor and it is rare that we see 8b onsights or 7C flashes. Nice exceptions to this are the 8a ranking game onsight/flash leaders, Laura Rogara (15), with eleven 8a to 8b onsights, and Karoline Sinnhuber, with seven 7C to 8A flashes. Being in the top-10 female boulderers in the world you need to do ten 8A's yearly but at the same time, you just seem to need to flash ten 7B+ or harder Boulder problems. When it comes to Routes, it is probably enough to onsight ten 7c's to be in the top-10, which seems easier than to redpoint ten 8b+'s or harder.

Now you can check the News, your scorecard, your friends' latest ascents, all Crag Ticklists and find driving directions to the crags on the new responsive website beta.8a.nu.

Tom O'Halloran has done his second 9a FA in Blue Mountains, Kitten Mittens. "So good. First route I ever bolted. Cool to see the process to the end!"

Pavel Blazek reports on Instagram, "As of right now the plan is to go back to the pitch #3 tomorrow - there was some surprisingly hard move - then have two days rest and start the push on Monday." Pavel also says he has a pulled muscle in the back so he is not sure if he can do it without not slowing Adam too much.

97: Margo Hayes USA - Simon Lorenzi BEL 99: Janja Garnbret SLO - Giorgio Bendazzoli ITA 01: Ashima Shiraishi USA - Sam Avezou FRA Complete results 1. Slovenia took all medals in female -99 and their fourth participant was #5. This must be the greatest domination by a country in the Youth Worlds. Among the male -99, Italy had three guys in the Top-8. 2. Ashima Shiraishi topped all four routes but also Janja Garnbret, Margo Hayes, Same Avezou and Giorgio Bendazzoli won all four rounds. 3. Simon Lorenzi was the biggest sensational winner - he was #21 after the two qualification routes. 4. USA and Japan with eight finalists were the two best countries. Surprisingly, bad results for Austria, Spain and Germany.

Onsights up to 8b by Jan Vopat (13)
Jan Vopat has had a great week in Kalymnos where he onsighted six routes 8a to Por la socidad con mujeres satisfeches 8b. In the 8a onsight game ranking, the 13 year old is #11. Next year the Czech is old enough to compete in the Youth World Champions.

Ondra is ready, 3 weeks after - "Adam never really trad climbs, I've never been on MP"
Adam Ondra is resting for the big push on the 32 pitches of The Dawn Wall, half out of which are 8a+ or harder, including four 8b+'s, one 8c, one 8c+ and two 9a's. What is actually not so well-known is that Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgesson did a team ascent FA, meaning that they just needed to top rope half of the pitches, i.e swing leads. However, as the two 9a's were traverses, both led them and then Jorgesson lead the 8c+ but Caldwell opted for an 8c loop variation. In total, Caldwell and Jorgesson spent 16 days up the 1 000 meter the Dawn Wall to do the first team ascent. Earlier on they had spent six years projecting the line. Adam will not have the benefit of climbing half of the pitches on top rope which makes his ascent harder as most of the time he will be protected only on trad gear. Adam is accompanied by Pavel Blazek who reported on his Instagram three weeks ago: "We both find it quite funny - Adam never really trad climb, I've never been on multipitch climb, neither of us ever had to jug up or set the fix ropes on big wall ... The learning curve is bit steep :) :) :)"